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Uzbekistan

Arrived late in the erly morning hours September 10, 2022 after 32 hours of flying. Welcome to Tashkent, Uzbekistan. One of the must-visit attractions in Tashkent for every tourist is the famous Timurids History Museum. The three-story rounded building of the Museum is framed by a dome in classic Oriental style. The Museum's exhibits tell visitors about the history of Uzbekistan during the reign of the Timurid dynasty.

Our tour of the Stan's began on arrival in Tashkent, Uzbekistan September 10, 2022.

History tells us this place was once the center of the intersection of the four roads of the Great Silk Road, which passed from the oldest Chinese city of Chang’an through the territory of modern Tashkent to Kokand and beyond. In 1994 the square received its current name, Amir Temur Square, and its center was decorated with a monument to Amir Timur, the great commander and the outstanding ruler of the Timurid dynasty of the ancient Middle Ages.

Uzbeekistan is surrounded by five landlocked countries: Kazakhstan to the north; Kyrgyzstan to the northeast; Tajikistan to the southeast; Afghanistan to the south; and Turkmenistan to the southwest. Its capital and largest city is Tashkent.

International Symposium Palace

Tashkent Park and Fountains

Local food stand with food to go.

Flower gardens in Tashkent Park

Water fountains in Tashkent Park

Lighted buildings across the street from the Hotel I was staying.

City Palace Hotel where I was staying lighted at night.

Overhead lighted traffic intersections in Tashkent

Light Ferris wheel across the city.

The Monument of Courage is one of the most significant monuments in Tashkent. The monument is dedicated to the 1966 earthquake in Tashkent. It occurred on 26 April. It had a magnitude of 5.1 with an epicenter in central Tashkent. The earthquake caused massive destruction to Tashkent, destroying most of the buildings in the city, killing between 15 and 200 people and leaving 300,000 homeless. Following the disaster, most of the historic parts of Tashkent had been destroyed and the city was rebuilt.

A black labradorite cube with the date of 26 April 1966 inscribed on one of its sides is installed on a granite pedestal. Another side of the cube presents a clock, the hands of which show the time of 5:24. The cube is split by a crack symbolizing the break of the earth and continuing to the foot of the statue, which represents a woman embracing a child and a man trying to protect them with his breast from the strike of the nature.

In the background of the monument there is a composition in relief telling about the restoration of Tashkent.

Former Russian buildings when Russia was the rulers of what is now Uzbekistan.

Tashkent, an ancient city, which appeared on one of the crossroads of the Great Silk Road more than 2 thousand years ago, considered the same age as Rome. During its history, it changed many names.

The sign we had in the front window of our bus.

We stumbled across a groom to be and his family delivering items to the Brides family for an arranged marriage. 95% of all marriages are arranged in this part of the world.

This our local guide for Uzbekistan Aziz Rakhmatov who will travel with us the next 9 days while in Uzbekistan. He is explaining the traditions of the food presented by the groom and his family to his new bride to be. The fathers of the bride and the groom get together and decided if they will marry or not. The bride and groom do not even know each other prior to these arrangements many times.

Local construction in the old town. It does not do well as you can see in earthquakes.

Glass truck used for catering weddings and special occasions.

Family members of the groom to be bringing hot home made bread roles to share with the family. They were very nice to share one which broke up and tasted.

Here they are showing us the home made bread roles made by the wife in the photo.

The Mausoleum of Abubakr Kaffal ash-Shashi is one of the most significant cultural and architectural monuments of Tashkent, a part of the historical and architectural complex of Hazrat Imam, located in the old part of the city.

The madrassah, or school, was named in honor of Barak Khan. The construction took place in several stages, that’s why it was completed only by 1532_7681

The workmanship is very typical of all over Uzbekistan.

Local artists display their art inside the former Madrassas.

There is an unique district in Tashkent known as the Old City. It can be rightfully considered as the center of the history of the Uzbek capital, since there are many architectural monuments which have huge spiritual and historical value.

A new mosque being erected next to the old city.

Tashkent City Hall

We then visited the Chorsu Bazar, a huge open market. It draws huge crowds of people from the countryside.

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Great variety of spices

Everyone works at something. There is no welfare.

Fruit looks great. Just picked from the countryside.

The lady to the in pink is preparing Plov. Plov is a rice dish that is cooked in a broth. Depending on its origin, rice pilaf can be accompanied with meat, fish, vegetables, dried fruits or nuts. This method of cooking rice is widespread across the globe. I also say it prepared with horse meat.

Cooked intestines are very popular in the Central Stans

To the left in the photo is another version of Plov prepared to go.

Bitter cheese balls are very popular too.

This market has a little of everything

Shoe market

You can find everything here.

Tashkent metropoliteni, the underground metro, is the rapid transit system serving the city of Tashkent, the capital of Uzbekistan. It was the seventh metro to be built in the former USSR, opening in 1977, and was the first subway system in Central Asia.

Train coming into the station we were going to get on it

Our group taking a ride on a Sunday afternoon. The stations were very clean.

Decoration on the wall inside the station of the first Russian Astronaut to go into space.

Former Russian built apartment buildings several blocks long. If there are 5 floor or more they will have an elevator. Less than 5 floor they have stairs only.

Outdoor seating area of a huge restaurant called Besh Qozon.

Besh Qozon is not only a restaurant, it is an attraction, a MUST to visit ! Rarely will you see a kitchen this size, massive cooking vessels, ovens and open fires. And you're allowed to wander freely and close-up

Massive containers to prepare the Plov. The meat is then added at another station.

Every day, Uzbek bakers hand-roll and stamp thousands of loaves of bread. Shaped like wheels, these loaves are dense and chewy, with a golden crust and an airy crumb. They're often eaten in groups and shared around the dinner table. While you can find countless varieties of these breads across Uzbekistan, the most legendary loaves are baked in the city of Samarkand which we will visit in a few days. Here, bread is sacred and made with the utmost care.

Preparing the meat to be served with the Plov.

Today is Sunday and the restaurant is filled with families eating Plov. Photo taken from the balcony above the main dining room.

Dining room on the ground floor looking up to the balcony.

Still another dining room filled with families and friends gathering on Sunday for dinner.

We leave Tashkent and fly to Nukas, the Capital of Karakalpakstan and visit the Savietsky Musesum with beautiful paintings and works of art.

This region is known for the Ellik-Qala or fifty fortresses. The desert oasis of Khwarezm offers a literal treasure trove of archeological and anthropological history. Dotting the vast desert of what was once ancient Khwarezm are the ruins of countless forts and towns collectively known as the Golden Ring.

The archaeological site of Toprak-kala ,1st-4th centuries AD, is one of the most remarkable architectural monuments of Khorezm. It was thought to have a population of about 3,000 persons and was the principal city of one of the local dynasties.

We walked up and around this site. The site consists of three fortresses which were built from the 4th century BC to the 7th century AD. The fortresses were part of a series of forts at the edge of the Kyzylkum Desert, which provided defense against raids by nomads and the Saka of the Syr Darya delta.

The enemies' approach lies parallel to the south east walls and invaders were vulnerable to attack from above. A massive gateway defended by two rectangular towers leads into a small rectangular chamber.

Camels below on the desert floor looking down from the top of the fortress.

The enclosure of the fortress consists of an inner and outer wall with a vaulted corridor between them, about 2 m wide. The walls continue above the vaults, forming a protected rampart walk. The walls are up to 33 feet high and at their base 6 to 7 feet thick.

Ayaz Kala is a fortress dating back to end of the 4th or beginning of the 3rd century BC. It is speculated to have been built as part of a chain of border fortresses guarding the borders of the Kyzylkum Desert. The fortress is situated on the top of a hill, approximately 330 feet high, providing wide views over the surrounding plains.

Looking down from the top of the former fortress to the end of the road and a small hut encampment to stay and our bus parked.

Looking back up at the fortress where the previous photo was taken. We climbed down and walked out of the fortress top areas.

When out in this part of Uzbekistan it is necessary to have a four wheel drive when you want to be off road. Obviously this couple had not thought it through before starting out.

We are now in the town of Khiva. Khiva is split into two parts. The outer town, called Dichan Kala, was formerly protected by a wall with 11 gates. The inner town is encircled by brick walls, whose foundations are believed to have been laid in the 10th century. Present-day crenellated walls, a pattern along the top of a parapet, a fortified wall, most often in the form of multiple, regular, rectangular spaces in the top of the wall, through which arrows or other weaponry may be shot, dates back to the late 17th century and attain the height of 30 feet.

The semi round cement, laid on the smooth parts of the wall, are actually burials of those that were killed on that very spot defending Khiva through its history.

Inside the wall within the city installing new pavers in the streets.

One of the 11 entrances to the inner city.

Kalta Minor, the large blue tower in the central city square, was supposed to be a minaret. It was built in 1851 by Mohammed Amin Khan, but the Khan died and the succeeding Khan did not complete it.

Aziz our guide started a conversations with these local ladies. They told us they were out of the houses for the day away from their husbands.

They actually invited us to dinner at their homes. They ask you once.. then they ask you a second time. If they are really serious they would ask us a third time. They did...

We thanked them very much but we already had plans for dinner for the evening. We wished them a fun day...

I met a local gentleman and started speaking with him through Aziz our guide and interpreter. We exchanged hats and were having a great conversation.

He was asking questions about America and our reason for visiting Uzbekistan.

We returned each others hat... While few people speak English, body language with constant smiling opens the hearts for understanding and for developing fond memories.

I am telling him that where ever I speak in the world I always end with four words important to me. "Friendship Moves the World". He is telling me he absolutely believes it too..

A walking street within the old walled city. According to archaeological data, the city was established around 1500 years ago.

Another of the 11 gates into the inner city.

Exterior of the walls of the city

Map of within the walls of the cityof Khiva.

Minaret, Friday Mosque and museum of 213 wooden piars and an unfinished tower

Four local ladies out for the afternoon enjoying people watching.

Local handicrafts... so unique

Another entrance of the 11 gates into the old city

Khiva is a beautiful oasis city with ancient walls, minarets and unique clay buildings.

Inside a mosque with the walls of the old city. Note the wooden pilars

Strolling into the the reception courtyard and throne room where the emir or khan would receive visitors, the other the private mosque. Interestingly, the nomadic tradition is reflected in the way the khan's courtyard has a raised stone dais, on which a grand yurt would be erected,

The tile work is so intricate and have lasted over the years to the elements.

The tile work is spectacular on the building.

The Old Palace or The Ark is said to be the oldest structure in Khiva, originating from the 12th century. Kunya-Ark ‘old fortress’ was Khiva rulers’ residence and citadel. The reception courtyard and throne room where the emir or khan would receive visitors, the other the private mosque. Interestingly, the nomadic tradition is reflected in the way the khan's courtyard has a raised stone dais, on which a grand yurt would be erected,

Kurinish-khona, reception hall, and was used for official receptions.

The city of Khiva which celebrated its 2,500th birthday 15 years ago can itself be called a large Uzbekistan sight. It was not just an individual Khiva monument that was included in the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1990 but the whole Ichan-Kala - ‘inner town’, the historical part of the city - with the suburb Dishan-Kala, which both have been Khiva for centuries. Among the numerous architectural monuments in Ichan-Kala stands out Kyunya-Ark Fortress - the heart of the ‘inner town’.

The Kalta Minor Minaret.. made up of blue green tiles in dazzling patters. This minaret can be seen almost anywhere in the old city. A landmark.

Locals walking to a wedding about to take place in a few minutes across gardens.

Shopping for a fur hat... this is the place for a unique hat.

Aziz picking out some local bread for us to sample.

Local woodworking.

Explaining to us how to use this item that he makes. Tale about clever.

Oven for baking the local bread

Wedding Party

Narrow walking streets inside the walled city.

During our travels in Uzbekistan and Tajikistan we ran into a number of couples that were getting married on the same day we were in the countries. Remember 95% of all the couples are arranged marriages.

Locals also touring the old walled city.

The people of Central Asia, including the Uzbek's, are friendly and very hospitable.

Friday Mosque or Juma Mosque. The mosque was first mentioned in the 10th century, but the current building was rebuilt in 1788. The building is a brick floor with a flat roof, with 212 wooden columns in 17 rows. The size of the building is 165 feet by 138 feet and its minaret is 126 feet high.

Another couple about to be married. The brides rent the dresses they wear.

The door in the corner that is opposite the entrance to kurinish-khona leads to the harem built in the second half of the 19th during the rule of Muhammad Rakhim-Khan and to the hill Ak-Sheikh-Bobo with unusual adobe bastion where on the upper deck you can have a beautiful view of Khiva.

On display is an old yurt or hut that the early travelers of the silk road may have used for overnight accommodations.

Intricate ceilings, tile and carvings on the wooden support poles

The deep blue color was obtained by firing the tile at exactly the right temperature with a glaze made from a desert plant.

On the left of the fortress gate there are guarding and storage facilities, stables and repair shops. A long narrow corridor leads inside the citadel. It connects all the yards with the entrances to all the rooms, chambers and halls of the fortress. The first yard was intended for envoys waiting for audiences with the khan. The second one was used for the fortress defending ordnance. The khan’s council gathered in the third yard.

This was classic to see these handmade items for tourism

Kungrat Dynasty leaders bed. Each night a young lady was brought from the harem for his pleasure.

Khiva is debatable the highlight of Uzbekistan’s Silk Road cities. The inner town, Ichan-Kala, is surrounded by ancient fortification walls and imposing gates.

The Tashauli Palace and Harem. It took 8 years to built the structure, which never pleased the khan: he wanted this big project to be completed in 2 years’ time. Many master builders lost their heads for this reason. They began the construction with the harem and khan’s chambers; then they built the mekhmonkhona ‘reception hall’ and arzonkhona ‘court’, on the eastern and western sides respectively.

Looking across Khiva from a high point within the city.

Looking across Khiva from a high point within the city. Tash-Khauli Palace built in 1830 - 1838 is an example of Khorezm architectural grandeur of those times. The palace was built by order of Allakuli-Khan.

The old city of Khiva retains more than 50 historic monuments such as mosques, madrassa, bathhouses, mausoleums, harems and an ark, as well as more than 200 houses built during the 18th century.

The khan’s chambers and harem are separated from the official part by a single corridor. The khan’s room is the largest and richest in decoration; the other four rooms were used by the khan’s wives - according to the Koran, a man must not have over four wives. Along the perimeter of the yard runs a two-story structure with rooms for female relatives and concubines.

The section designated for guests and delegations forms a square yard with a round platform for the khan’s guest yurt in the center. Along the yard run terraces and rooms - all splendidly decorated with the traditional white and blue majolica.

Statues depicting a caravan of camels on the old Silk Road

Outside the walls of the city.

Inside the old walled city of Khiva at sunset.

Restaurant we had dinner our last night in Khiva

Melons along the highway for sale. Today we drove for 8 hours with breaks heading to Bukhara our next stop.

This was one of the most unusual items we found on the trip in Uzbekistan. Bull for rent. Stud Bull!

Here is the sign in person... promoting the bull that is in Uzbekistan writing

That is a lot of Bull!

Local father and son enjoying a sample taste of some good locally grown melons. I tired it and it was great.

You find it in a one stop shop... a lot of Bull and a whole lot of melons.

Lots of interest in the melons.

Waiting our turn to cross a one way bridge

We discover the bridge and road is shared with the local railroad. Notice the tracks on the bridge.

After our break stop we travel for hours through the Kyzyl-kum Desert. In the distance we see the border of Turkmenistan.

At a look out point on our trip through Uzbekistan we find a "Do Not Enter Turkmenistan". In spite of its best efforts, Turkmenistan has failed to top Freedom House’s Worst of the Worst list in the category of countries with the fewest political rights and civil liberties this year. It was beaten out by joint leaders Syria and South Sudan, although it did manage somehow to edge out North Korea.

North Korea and Turkmenistan rank alongside of each other for rights of their citizens. Turkmenistan is, alas, entirely out of step with the current global investment climate in one other important respect: the environment. Committing money to the Turkmenistan energy sector means financing an environmental open sore of calamitous proportions. A report in the Guardian newspaper recently states the persistent problem of huge methane leaks.

Cotton production in Uzbekistan is important to the national economy of the country. Cotton grown on Uzbekistan land was recorded nearly 2000 years ago by the Chinese.

We stopped along our journey to Bukhara to see cotton growing and picking. We had the opportunity to pick cotton. What a hard job.

Uzbekistan is the 8th largest producer and the 11th largest exporter of cotton in the world.Up to 2017, the industry was state-controlled on a national level. About two million people were involved in the harvesting of cotton every year. Many of them were forced to work in the cotton fields, receiving little or no pay.

In March 2022 the Cotton Campaign ended its call to boycott Uzbek cotton. This follows extensive reforms in Uzbekistan by president Shavkat Mirziyoyev, who has pledged to outlaw forced labor in Uzbekistan since coming to power in 2016. In 2022 the International Labor Organisation, ILO, announced that the Uzbek cotton industry is free of child and forced labor.

We arrive in Bukhara, the former capital of the once powerful Emirate of Bukhara. It is located on the Silk Road. It has long been a center of trade, scholarhip, culture and religion.

We are walking through a market area in the old town prior to going to dinner. Here we see a local cleansing the air.

Aziz is explaining the process of the cleansing and its meaning.

This shop in the Bazaar looks like it has many services available.

Bukhara rugs were first made by nomadic tribes, especially the Tekke tribe, who roamed this region and Central Asia1,3,4,5. Bokhara rugs have geometric patterns and rows of guls, which are octagonal motifs3. They were highly loved and used in prestigious empires and temples.

Bazaar where many hand made items are available for purchase from Bukhara.

The city of Bukhara is about two and a half thousand years old. Located on the Silk Road, the city has long been a center of trade, education, culture, and religion. During the Golden age of Islam, under the rule of Samanids, Bukhara became the intellectual center of the Islamic world.

The word Madrasah means School. The Ulugh Beg Madrasa, built in 1417, is one of only a handful of Timurid-era buildings that survive in the Bukhara region. Of the three, the two madrasas were the work of Ulugh Beg, the astronomer-king and grandson of Timur who ruled from 1447-49.

The Abdulazizkhan Madrasah, School, built in 1652, a few centuries later than Ulugh-Beg Madrasah, built in 1417, Abdulaziz-Khan Madrasah, which stands across from it, is an integral part of Bukhara’s most outstanding architectural ensemble. Abdulaziz-Khan Madrasah marks the remarkable progress of medieval Central Asian architecture; it shows us how amazingly high the skills of Central Asian architects, builders and artists were at the time.

Material making and dyeing.

Taqi-Zagaron Dome Market

Close up of the tiles centuries old.

Built in 1652, a few centuries later than Ulugh-Beg Madrasah (built in 1417), Abdulaziz-Khan Madrasah, which stands across from it, is an integral part of Bukhara’s most outstanding architectural ensemble. Abdulaziz-Khan Madrasah marks the remarkable progress of medieval Central Asian architecture; it shows us how amazingly high the skills of Central Asian architects, builders and artists were at the time.

Fresh Spices for sale in the Bazaar.

Local made art work for sale

Local made art work for sale in the Dome Market

Leaving the Dome Market

Material hand dyed locally for sale

Workers, from outside the city, making the Bukjara rugs for sale.

You can see the yarns above for the colors in the rugs

It can take a year to complete one of these rugs which will be sold. All woven by hand.

The other side of the wall, to the left, is where the ladies are working on the rugs. These are the completed items for sale. Amazing.

When the Kalon Mosque of Bukhara was built in 1127, its minaret was probably the tallest building in Central Asia. It can house 10,000 worshipers and its roof consists of 288 domes. In addition to its main purpose as a minaret, the Kalon Minaret served as a watchtower and a guide to approaching caravans on the Silk Route.

The mosque was known also as Jamia, Friday, mosque because all male inhabitants of the city were expected to attend the Friday prayer in this mosque. The courtyard was very large. When Genghis Khan conquered Bukhara and went inside the mosque he thought he was entering the ,local, royal palace. He was impressed by the tall minaret which flanked the mosque.

Local students taking a tour of the Mir-i-Arab religious school.

Built in 1534 1539, its name, Mir-i Arab, literally means "Prince of the Arabs" and refers to Sheikh Abdullah Yamani of Yemen who rose to fame as head of Bukhara's Muslim community during the reign of Muhammad Shaybani, the founder of the short-lived Shaibanid dynasty. Sheikh Yamani served as the spiritual adviser of several Khans and was ultimately laid to rest within the madrasa that now bears his name.

Nearly all central Asian madrasas, religious schools, follow a similar layout. Their basic elements comprise a rectangular plan, a spacious open-air courtyard, one or two stories of cells for students, and one or more monumental entrances marked by a large hall open on one side. First, the main entrance leads to a small antechamber that branches off in three directions to provide access to the courtyard as well as a mosque and lecture hall on either side.

Second, a covered ambulatory runs around the interior of the ground floor level, providing a continuous passageway for the occupants. Finally, the rear hall, a large hall or audience chamber often open on one side, is built with a deep protrusion that extends north from the building, forming a large shaded area which was likely used for outdoor classes. Additional indoor classrooms are found at the northwest and northeast corners of the building.

Myself standing with two mannequins dressed in the time period.

The Ark is a large earthen fortification located in the northwestern part of contemporary Bukhara.

The entrance to the Ark of Bukhara is a massive fortress located in the city of Bukhara, Uzbekistan, that was initially built and occupied around the 5th century AD. The ceremonial entrance into the citadel is architecturally framed by two 18th-century towers. The upper parts of the towers are connected by a gallery, rooms, and terraces.

This bronze statue of Nasiruddin Khoja on his donkey is located in the Lyabi-Hauz, Lake House, complex of central Bukhara. This semi-mythical ‘wise fool’ appears in all folklore of Central Asia and middle east countries – the cunning old man with his faithful donkey companion moving around cities . He is supposed to have tactfully ridiculed greedy rulers, hypocrites.

Beautiful and unusual dining room in the Lyabi, Lake, House Hotel in central Bukhara.

Children coming out of their classroom in a local school as we walked by.

We stopped and walked through the Grand Nodirbek Hotel gardens as we strolled through the old town area.

We stopped at a small business that make puppets. He we are being shown some of them.

Two of the young master makers of the puppets demonstrating their skills. Very interesting.

More brides having their photos taken in this beautiful area of Buhkara.

Handsome Groom and his soon to be Bride.

Yet another Bride and Groom. Remember all these marriages are arranged by the families.

Group of retired men meting for an afternoon of friendship.

Chris Tripodi, our guide for Adventures Abroad, having fun with some local boys just playing in an area of the city.

Chor minor), alternatively known as the Madrasah of Khalif Niyaz-kul, is a historic gatehouse for a now-destroyed madrasa in the historic city of Bukhara.

From the Soviet occupation time old uniforms from Russia and pins that were popular at the time.

Close up of some of the pins from Russian military times.

Driving around Bukhara. Funny all the cars in the photo are white in color.

Bolo Haouz Mosque is a historical mosque in Bukhara, Uzbekistan. Built in 1712, on the opposite side of the citadel of Ark in Registan district, Thin columns made of painted woods were added to the frontal part of the mosque in 1917, additionally supporting the bulged roof of summer prayer room.

5 required times of prayer in the mosque daily by all who attend. This is world wide for the emuslim religion..

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The Samanid mausoleum is one of the oldest and only surviving building from the prosperous Samanid dynasty that ruled Central Asia in the 9th and 10th century. But it is special in another context as well. Orthodox Sunni Islam actually explicitly prohibits burials in mausoleums.

Photo when it fell into disrepair and a current photo today.

Interior of the mausoleum.

Local ladies out for the afternoon stroll. Very typical of local dress.

Entrance to the Sitorai Miho Khossa, the summer residence of the last Bukharin emirs, is situated 4 km north of the city. The old palace was built in the second half of the 19th century.

Afrosiyob is the fastest train in Uzbekistan, allowing you to quickly and comfortably travel between Tashkent, Samarkand and Bukhara. We took this train as we were not allowed to enter into the city by bus due to a Shanghai Conference of 17 Presidents attending. More on this later.

Along with Bukhara, Samarkand is one of the oldest inhabited cities in Central Asia, prospering from its location on the trade route between China and Europe. Samarkand's earliest dates of the city's founding is believed to be the 8th–7th centuries BC. The buildings seen in the photo are Registan Square. Registan was a public square, where people gathered to hear royal proclamations, heralded by blasts on enormous copper pipes called dzharchis - and a place of public executions. It is framed by three madrasahs, Islamic schools, of distinctive Islamic architecture.

When we arrived in Smarkand there was a Shanghai Summit taking place, September 14-15, 2022, Shanghai Cooperation Organization, taking place, just blocks from our hotel, with 14 World leaders from surrounding countries, including Xi from China and Putin from Russia. The entire town was locked down. This was the reason we arrived by train. The photo was taken the day after the conference concluded. This gorup of police was part of the protection team for the leaders and were given a tour of the city before returning to their home countries.

Tilla-Kari Madrasah is the last of the three buildings of the world-famous complex of Registan Square, that was erected by a ruler of Samarkand. It was built in 1646 and, according to the plan of Yalangtush Bakhadur, it should have combined a spiritual institution and a mosque.

Another view of the Shor-Dor Madrasah.

The influence of this ancient Uzbek grand square stretches far across the world’s cities, from Isfahan in Iran to Agra in India and Russia’s St Petersburg

Sher-Dor Madrasah was built on the Registan Square, Samarkand in 1619-1636. The name is translated as “Madrassah with Lions”. It is the distorted and exaggerated reflection of the Ulugbek Madrasah, which is located just opposite, on the western side of the Registan Square. The difference in age between them is 200 years. Sher-Dor has larger area and sizes, but it yields to its “elder brother” by the quality of finishing works.

The Ulugh Beg Madrasa an Islamic school in the historic center of Samarkand. Together with other monuments, it forms the monumental ensemble of Registan, the old heart of the city. It was built between 1417 and 1421 by the then-Timurid governor of Samarkand, Ulugh Beg, Timur's grandson and prominent astronomer, who was later emperor between 1447 and 1449. The madrasa was an important teaching center of the Timurid Empire, where they taught some of the most outstanding scholars of their time, both religious and secular. It is the oldest building in Registan, the only one from the 15th century.

Photos showing the disrepair of the buildings through time

Inside the Observatory of Ulugbekn observatory in Samarkand, Uzbekistan, built in the 1420s by the Timurid astronomer Ulugh Beg. The observatory was destroyed in 1449 and rediscovered in 1908.

Ulugbek, who had a great knowledge of mathematics and astronomy, agreed to build an observatory. In this regard, Ulugbek gathered many scientists and in 1417 convened a meeting dedicated to the construction of the observatory.

The work of medieval Eastern astronomers, including Central Asian scientists, has a special place in the development of world astronomy. During this period, Central Asian scholars, especially Uzbeks, left a very rich legacy, especially on the theory of motion of the Sun, Moon and planets, practical astronomy on determining the geographical coordinates of time and place

A look into the depths of the Universe from an observatory set up by Ulugbek and his comrades at the foot of Samarkand, a great city almost six centuries ago, reveals the "undiscovered reserve" of world science and culture - the study of the universe was a big step forward.

Inside the Madrasa are many works from Ulugbek. Ulugbek, who had a great knowledge of mathematics and astronomy, agreed to build an observatory. In this regard, Ulugbek gathered many scientists and in 1417 convened a meeting dedicated to the construction of the observatory. This site is where Uleg made some of the greatest achievements of the pre telescopic era or astronomy in the 15th century.

Sundial in the courtyard with reflections of the surrounding area

Building Sher-Dor Madrasah. Look at the following photos of information discovered about the facad of the building.

Also there are images of tigers with the sun on their backs on each side of the arch. Also you can see an image of a swastika from ancient times. .

Another view of the Shor-Dor Madrasah. In the center of the arch above the entrance there is the image of swastika, which from ancient times was the symbol of abundance and fertility.

The Bibi-Khanym Mosque is one of the most important monuments of Samarkand, Uzbekistan. In the 15th century, it was one of the largest and most magnificent mosques in the Islamic world.

The interiors of the mosque contain gilding, imitating local brocade embroideries. Bibi-Khanym mosque was one of the most ambitious architectural projects of the Timurid period and influenced the architecture of Central Asia as well as of Iran and Afghanistan.

The dome and wales inside the mosque are incredible to visit.

Aerial photos of the Registan Square. The name translates to "Sandy Place".

In many writings the square compares to the Wonders of the World. The three Madrasahs , Islamic Schools are filled with various arts and crafts, old photos of the monuments, all taken before the reconstruction by the Soviets took over the landscape years ago. Today a free country from the Soviets.

Gardens to the right of the Square.

A night time photo of Registan Square take from a poster.

Some of the local handcrafts for sale in Samarkand.

Photo of the Famous Silk Road showing where the countries of Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Kazakhstan, and Kyrgyzstan. Also showing are the surrounding countries of Pakistan, Afghanistan, Iran, India, China and Mongolia.

Teenager delivering food nearby

This is one of my favorite candies made in the Middle East and Central Asia. They also make is for sale in the local market. I had to buy some to take with me along the journey of the Stans.

All types of nuts for sale at the market

Dried fruits and walnuts

Local shopper

Eggs for sale

Plates and dishes for sale in the general market

Interesting sign for the bathrooms. You pay to use them. Note the bottom one is for use prior to praying in a local mosque.

Visit to the regal mausoleums and burial ground of Shah-i Zinda, site of Central Asia's most sacred Islamic shrine,

this place is sacred for Muslims, and every ruler sought to build a memorial in Shakhi-Zinda and bury their loved ones here. The buildings are made of blue and turquoise tiles and are considered masterpieces of architecture from the XI century to the beginning of the XX century.

Azia in the doorway

The name Shah-i-Zinda ,meaning "The living king", is connected with the legend that, a cousin of the Prophet Muhammad, is buried here.

Many of the private mausoleums have carved wooden doors leading to burial or internment sites.

Memorial museum for Mirzo Ulugbek, the famous astronomer.

Mirzo Ulugbek was able to create the most equipped astronomical centere of that time. The observatory was round in shape, its diameter reached 46 meters, and the height was at the level of a ten-story building. Although the structure was three-story, each floor was ten meters higher. Inside, along the line of the meridian, Ulugbek built a quadrant – a large 64 meters long instrument, located at an angle of 90 degrees. Before the invention of the telescope, such a quadrant served as a tool for measuring the height of the stars above the horizon and for determining the coordinate of the point from which the measurement was carried out. Ulugbek’s quadrant was the largest in the world at that time, and therefore the most accurate. The observatory consisted of two parts, and the one that was underground had been preserved.

Photo. He was able to calculate the Stellar Year length with unprecedented accuracy - 365 days, 6 hours, 10 minutes, 8 seconds and the error was less than a minute.

Entrance to his observatory where you can still see his astronomical center of that time.

Side view of the mausoleum and gardens known as Tamerlane.

Go'ri Amir, is a mausoleum of the Turco-Mongol conqueror Timur,also known as Tamerlane, in Samarkand, Uzbekistan. It occupies an important place in the history of Central Asian Architecture as the precursor for and had influence on later Great Mughal architecture tombs, including Gardens of Babur in Kabul, Humayun's Tomb in Delhi and the Taj Mahal in Agra, built by Timur's Indian descendants, Turco-Mongols that followed Indian culture with Central Asian influences.

Infamous wooden doors in Tamerlane.

Curse of Timur. When Soviet scientists wanted to open Tamerlane's tomb, rumors went around Samarkand that opening the tomb would curse those who opened it. Local leaders attempted to warn the excavation team of the "risks". The tomb is inscribed with two warnings that read "When I Rise From the Dead, The World Shall Tremble". Allegedly, once opened another inscription was discovered: “Whosoever Disturbs My Tomb Will Unleash an Invader More Terrible than I". Even though people claim that this story is a fabrication, the legend persists.

Aziz holding a drawing of Genghis Khan ....a rare if any depiction of what he looked like.

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© 2025 Jim Schroder