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Tajikistan

Today, September 18, 2022 we leave by bus to the Uzbekistan-Tajikistan border, Jarteppa border crossing, where we have to pull our own luggage between the two countries approximately 3/4 a mile over a poorly paved single lane road. No photos allowed between countries. Once across the border and into Tajikistan we first visit the ancient ruins of Sarazm settlement. Sarazm was the first city in Central Asia to maintain economic relations with a network of settlements covering a vast territory from the Turkmenistan steppes and the Aral sea. Here we see some of the ruins of the ancient civilization.

Tajikistan is bordered by Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan to the north. Afghanistan to the south and China to the east. The ruins of Sarazm founded around 3500 BC is most likely the oldest city in Central Asia. The people here became adept at agriculture and producing goods for trade, so it became an important an wealthy center in the region.

Among the many structures that were excavated, the majority appear to be multi-rooms habitations, but some seem to have a different purpose and serve as communal buildings.Those buildings seem to be well thought out with clear plans, regular bricks with walls that are sometimes covered in colored coating, however their functions remain unclear.

Princess of Sarazm - inside the museum in a few photos you will see the actual bones of the Princess of Sarazm.

Burial sites were in the shape of a large circle 45 feet diameter surrounded by a wall. . In some of the burial chambers, valuables objects such as pottery and beads have been found.

At the peak of the occupation of Sarazm, the city was economically thriving and artistic production flourished. Pottery was richly ornamented with motifs such as circles, crosses, triangles, lines and net pattern painted using red, yellow and blue pigments. The rosette patterns found on some ceramic could be indicative of an understanding of the solar calendar.

Terracotta statuettes of women and animals with magical powers were also found as sculptural figures emerged as an important artistic trend. The religious beliefs of the Sarazm people are unclear, but we know that they had altars where sacred fires burned.

What the people of the time would have looked like. The inhabitants of Sarazm were occupied not only with agriculture and herding but also with metallurgical production. A large metal repertoire has been unearthed from the II, III and IV layers dug up by archeologists: daggers, awls, chisels, axes and decorative pieces were among the discoveries. There is ample evidence that the metal was actually worked in Sarazm using similar techniques as the ones used in Mesopotamia, the Iranian Plateau and the Indus Valley. Some have even claimed that around 3000 BC, it was the largest exporting metallurgical center of Central Asia.

Here you can see the ‘Lady of Sarazm’, the skeleton of a woman who was buried in the 4th century BC and covered with colorful lapis beads and seashell bracelets. Her body and the jewellery has been moved and recreated here.

What life might have been like re created on the wall inside the museum. Panjikent mural 6th-7th century AD.

We find a bride and groom having their photos taken at the site. Just like Uzbekistan marriages in Tajikistan are 95% arranged by the families.

We arrive at the ancient town ruins of Penjakent above the present city of Penjikent. Ancient Panjakent was a small but flourishing town of the Sogdians in pre-Islamic Central Asia. It was known as Panchekanth. It means five towns or villages in Persian.

Two workers rebuilding the ruins in the ancient town part of Penjakent.

Overlooking the newer town of Penjikent from the ancient city.

Looking out across the valley, is the present day town of Penjikent stretching out below in the horizon. It was the last stop for caravans heading east from Samarkand, Uzbekistan to stock up before they hit the mountains – or, conversely, the first chance to rest for those that had just made the arduous trek across the peaks. In the distance is the the road that traces the path of the river.

Panjakent was an important Silk Road city, even if it wasn’t a particularly large one.

The ancient city of Panjakent is just ruins now and most of it is underground, still to be excavated. But it would once have been quite grand.

Ancient Panjakent was founded here as early as the 5th century BC as part of the Sogdian civilisation. It was in the 5th century AD that it really began to flourish. There would have been temples, fortresses, and large mansions for the wealthiest residents. In 722 AD, though, the Arabs conquered Panjakent and that was the beginning of the end. By the end of the 8th century, it had been deserted.

Local market just before closing time

The stalls inside are arranged in concentric circles and the sun shines in from high windows. It creates a spectacular effect that makes me think of the old bazaars of the Silk Road days

It has been a hard days work.

Good looking local Tajikistan bread just baked hours before. The vendors with the piles of circular breads are doing well.

Panjakent market is bustling, even in the late afternoon, with floral-clad women with headscarves, shopping for the days foods and supplies as the enter through the ornate gate into the site.

Catching a few ZZZZ's at the end of the day

Leaving Penjikent and the drive across Tajikistan

One of the few highway bridges

The Silk Road was not an easy crossing from Samarkand to Penjikent. The mountains are steep and difficult today. I cannot imagine what it must have been thousands of years ago.

This was the neatest thing to see. Cooling the sodas and drinks naturally with water falling across the bottles along the highway.

Sour Cheese balls - Kashk is made from drained yogurt or drained sour milk by shaping it and letting it dry. It can be made in a variety of forms, like rolled into balls, sliced into strips, and formed into chunks.

Tasting a sample. The ancient form of kashk is a porridge of grains fermented with whey and dried in the sun. The long shelf-life and nutritional value of kashk made it a useful item for peasants during the winter months, as well as soldiers and travelers.

Modern kashk is usually a dish of dried buttermilk that can be crumbled and turned into a paste with water. This coarse powder can be used to thicken soups and stews and improve their flavor, or as an ingredient in various meat, rice or vegetable dishes. Drying allows a longer shelf life for the product.

Here I am with a owner and his son who are selling the varied products and cheese balls by the side of the road in their food shop. Yet another modern method, sour yogurt is blended until smooth, then boiled and strained. It is left to ferment in a warm oven for several days, then the moisture is strained and blended with salt to make the kashk.

Small communities along the Silk Road through mountainous areas.

Lake Istravshan is a mountain lake of glacial origin in Tajikistan. It lies at an altitude of 7,201 feet. The lake takes its name from Alexander the Great's passage in Tajikistan: Iskander is the Persian pronunciation of Alexander, and kul means lake in many Turkic languages.

There are two legends connecting the lake to Alexander. The first one states it used to be a location the inhabitants of which resisted Alexander's rule, and in fury, the king ordered to divert a river and annihilate them. The second legend states that Bucephalus, Alexander's horse, had drowned in the lake.

A tree root and trunk cut into a spectacular carving and painted gold. The back drop of the lake makes this a definite one of a kind viewing.

As you can see it has spectacular clear images of the surrounding hills and mountains reflecting on the lake.

Yughnob River

Bathrooms at a rest stop and restaurant. Only a hole in the ground. Yes the year is 2022 too.

Driving through the Hisal Range of mountains at one point reaching an altitude of 8,200 feet.

Car Wash by the side of the highway before entering in Dushanbe

Dushanbe translates in Tajik "Monday". It is the capital and largest city of Tajikistan. As of January 2022, Dushanbe had a population of 1,201,800 and that population was largely Tajik. Dushanbe was settled by various empires and peoples through its history. The most recent was Russian. Tajikistan was under Soviet dominion from 1929 until 1991 when they gained Independence.

Dushanbe is a delightful city built around parks, lakes and fountains. Its grand tree lined boulevard, Rudaki, has many older Soviet era pastel colored buildings on both sides of the boulevard. The city grew from a village which had a popular Monday market place, thus the name Dushanbe...Monday..

The Navruz Palace, a privately funded cultural center built by local skilled artisans.

Navruz Palace is a large complex of rotundas, a palace, a cinema, entertainment halls, and meeting rooms. The building is grand and monumentally large with rooms of magnificent chandeliers, parquetry floors, and long columns.

View of the city from the gardens of the Navruz Palace. The facility can be rented for weddings and any type of receptions and meetings. The whole territory of the complex including fountains, summer pavilions and garden – takes more than four hectares. Approximately four thousands of craftsmen from all parts of Tajikistan were involved in the process of building.

The building is also called the Chaikhana of Dushanbe which translates to Tea House. It is the larges Tea House in the world. This the Arzhang is the Conference Hall

Decorative wood carving of colon and ceilings, wall decorations: woodcarving, Florentine mosaic in colored mirrors, painted ceilings. Height of the biggest cupola is 120 feet.

Gulistan Hall used for banquets.

The entire building is over the top in decorations.

Mirrored wall with National Flags at the Palace. This room has held many international meetings.

To the left of the doorway street level is a blow up dummy man that waves in the wind with his free hand to enter in to the facility. ome into the restaurant side of the facility.

Statue of Tatar Timur 718-785. Timur Rose To Power Despite A Serious Physical Disability. Timur was a conqueror born into a tribe of horsemen in the area of Central Asia that is today Uzbekistan and Tajikistan. As a young man, Timur led a band of lawless fighters who robbed traveling merchants and engaged themselves in problems with local tribes.

In the distance is the statue of Ismail Somoni who was a ruler and hero of this region and there are many places named after him in the city.

National Museum has a total area of 72,000 square feet of exhibition halls. It is composed of four exhibition departments—Department of Natural History, Department of Ancient and Medieval History, Department of Modern and Contemporary History, and Department of Fine and Applied Arts.

National Museum

Presidential Palace. The Palace of the Nation is the official residence of the President of Tajikistan.

Azadi Park with the Presidential Palace, Palace of Nation, in the background of the photo.

Rudaki Monument. He was a Persian poet, 859 - 940 A.D.

Front view of the Rudaki Monument

Fountain laid walkway to National Library

National Library of Tajikistan with over 6 million books

Fountain walkway with back to the National Library looking opposite direction.

Unfinished building with air bridge between both buildings.

The 39 foot tall monument to Ismoil Somoni is dwarfed by a 129 foot arch directly behind, which is topped by a golden crown. monument of Ismoil Somoni and Dusti Square. The monument of Ismoil Somoni constructed in honor of the founder of the statehood of the Tajik nation Ismail Somoni. I. Somoni was the head of the Samanids State in the VIII-IX century. The lions represent courage.

National flag of Tajikistan

Tajikistan National Museum of Antiquities - was established in 1934 on the basis of the Exhibition of Achievements of the National Economy and Expeditionary Research. The museum collection contains unique finds, such as the preserved artifact of the "Queen of Sarazm" in Sarazm, Sughd region, near the city of Penjikent and a twelve-meter figure of Buddha, found by archaeologists in 1961 in the town of Ajina-Tepa in southern Tajikistan.

Our local guide in Tajikistan Boz explains what we are looking at. . It is particularly famous for its murals from Penjikent.

Close up detail of the same wall painting.

Battle Scene from the city of Panjikent in the 6th to 8th Centuries AD.

Young girls in the Botanical Park about to have their photos taken.

Young boys part of a party waiting for their photos to be taken in the Botanical Park also.

The Botanical Park covers 98.84 acres in the heart of the city. Here we walk under a fine covered arbor

Boz describing in detail some of the decorations in the Botanical park for us.

The extensive Botanical Gardens, with its Persepolis-inspired gateway, is home to a fine collection of mature deciduous trees and offers a shady retreat in the heat of the sun..

Here we find the ladies from the garden party earlier with the children enjoying the park.

Walking through one of the many beautiful arbor within the Botanical Park.

Entrance to the extensive Botanical Gardens, with its Persepolis-inspired gateway, is home to a fine collection of mature deciduous trees and offers a shady retreat in the heat of the sun..

Closer view of the entrance and its intricate architecture.

The new Independence and Freedom tower and Plaza opened in September 2022 a few days prior to our arrival into the city. The tower is 363 feet tall. First and Second floors are gallery and museum, 14th floor is top deck, the monument is surrounded by beautiful garden full of vibrant and colorful flowers. No money was spared building this project.

Exhibition of the local clothes worn in the area through the decades.

A young mother and her family visiting the town and museum for the first time.

Miniature of the Independence and Freedom Tower inside the museum.

Golden replica of Somoni's Throne is the center piece of the main floor exhibition.

Golden Artifacts

Walking inside the second and third floor of the Museum.

View from view deck of the new Independence and Freedom Tower looking at the city in all directions.

Looking down on the gardens below.

Looking at the Plaza below leading to the old Arch way leading off of a tree laden parkway in the city.

Looking at the city east.

The area below is still part of the old city as redevelopment has not moved into this area of the new Plaza and Independence and Freedom Tower area. You can see what the city looked like previous before all the new construction.

Looking in the direction of the Football Soccer Stadium.

Constructed over ten years at a cost of $93 million, Dushanbe Central Mosque is the largest mosque in Tajikistan and one of the largest in Central Asia. The Mosque and surrounding areas boast a maximum capacity of 120,000 for large events, with the Mosque itself able to accommodate around 25,000.

Ferris Wheel in the distance

Nuclear Plant and energy station for the city and surrounding area.

Bozz our guide in Tajikistan explaining to Bill Oakley, Chuck Coleman and Chris Tripodi our trip leader about what we are looking at across the city.

Viewing in the distance surrounding hills, residential buildings located nearby and gardens in the plaza below.

One of many ladies watering the beautiful flowers in the plaza gardens.

One of many fountains in the surrounding plaza and gardens at the base of the Tower.

Bleacher seating permanently set up for parades and events in the Plaza area.

Looking up at the Observation deck where we had been only minutes before looking across the city and gardens we are now in.

The sun setting behind the tower. The sun is showing off the sensational architectural, with its massive base and swirling lines and crown at the top.

Looking at the Arch from years past onto the tree lined street. We saw this Arch from the top of the tower in a earlier photo looking down.

Sun setting in the late afternoon to the left of the tower with the water fountains on each side of the walkway plaza to the street. .

At dinner this evening we were treated to some local music and dance.

Today we retrace part of our journey as we drive back up north to Khujanmd. We enjoy the drive through the mountains going north up the Shahriston Pass. Spectacular views along the road.

Life along the road.

Interesting note that our driver carries his prayer rug with him on the arm rest between the two front seats of the car.

En route we arrive at the historical site of Istravshan, one of the oldest cities in Tajikistan just about noon..

The town is over 2,500 years old and is part of the famous Silk Road.

Many people have come for the central market to do their shopping.

This small town has one of the best preserved old towns in Tajikistan.

Today the city is the most important wholesale trade center in this part of Tajikistan.

This is everyday life for this city.

Selling melons from the back of a truck.

One of the entrances to the central bazaar market.

You can find all types of items within this bazaar. A truck load of onions to the left of the photo in the back of a truck.

Loading up the purchases to take home

Students going home for lunch. All students male students must wear a white shirt and tie to school.

Very typical dress style for the ladies today.

There is no tourism in this part of Tajikistan. People are curios as to who we are. Friendly.

Across from the Central market bazaar you will find a line of blacksmith and small work shops.

Boss our Tajikistan guide takes us to one of the shops that makes knives.

Here we find one of the local trades man that makes handmade knives in a variety of knives. Now this is a knife.

Boss shows us the quality and design of this particular knife.

We learn from our craftsman how these beautiful knives are each made by hand with loving care and knowledge.

These masters are famous for their professional crafts that are nearly impossible to beat anywhere.

Check these knives out.

Istravshan is a most important wholesale trade center. They are famous for its crafts industry and enterprises .

They are happy to have you stop and watch them work. Even happier if you purchase their product.

Ladies doing their daily shopping for the home. Notice the styles for the ladies.

Stopping to see another knife craftsman at work

One of the questions asked frequently was "Russian"? When you would say "No, American" they wanted a photo with you. This happened over and over again during the trip.

Entrance to the Bazaar Market

After our lunch at a local restaurant in Istravshan we were invited to the home of another craftsman, Zmak Karecmba, honored by UNESCO in 2005 for his craftsmanship of making from a piece of wood antique combs.

From a large piece of special wood he takes a piece of wood and begins a demonstration of his skill in creating a comb.

In a few minutes he creates this comb with incredible quality.

Here is a close up of the comb before any stain is placed on it. What a work of art. A profession with very few alive today.

Here is a collection of recent combs that he has created to be sold. The styles are amazing and each so different.

Entering the city of Khujand, the second largest city of Tajikistan, situated on the Syr River at the mount of the Fergana Valley. We over night here.

The following morning we go to a city park where we see a group of military and civilians having a ceremony. We walk past with bothering them.

Here we find a repositioned statue of Stalin that has been moved to a desolate location in the city. Past history for Tajikistan.

As we walk in the park we see photos of fallen Tajikistan soldiers who were killed in the war with Afghanistan from 1979-1989.

With the help of Boss our Tajikistani guide we find out that the group is honoring Veterans that died in the conflict in Afghanistan. These gentlemen who honoring Tajikistan and Uzbekistan troops that fought along side the Soviet Union against the Afghanistan toops and died in battle..

The monument is for those who sacrificed their lives for this battle.The war in Afghanistan became a quagmire for what by the late 1980s was a disintegrating Soviet Union. The Soviets suffered some 15,000 dead and many more injured. As did the Tajikistan and Uzbekistan lose countless dead and injured.

Insignia of the war

The Soviet Socialist Republics in Central Asia, including Tajikistan, supported Moscow’s invasion of Afghanistan in 1979. Many citizens of present-day Tajikistan served alongside the Russian troops in Afghanistan. The Central Asian nations benefited economically as a staging area for Soviet troops and supplies.

The group honoring their veterans asked who we were and why we were in the park that day. We explained we were tourists from the US and Canada and we had veterans among us from conflicts in the world they asked to join them in photos.

We are mixing and speaking with veterans.

I was asked to join in a photo with the veterans. There were reporters at the program and we had out photos taken for local news.

A young flag barer asked if he could have a photo with me, an American. I was honored.

Municipal building with the flag of Tajikistan and flags in the foreground. .

We passed by a fountain in town as we drove around.

Friday Mosque which is across from the Khujand's Panchashanbe Bazaar.

Plaza in front of the Friday Mosque. Lots of pigeons.

A young father taking a photo of his son with the pigeons.

The pigeons are everywhere..

Boss explaining to us details of the Friday Mosque before we enter inside.

Inside the Friday Mosque

Area of prayer inside the Friday Mosque

Entering the Panchshanbe Bazaar. Water melons for sale. They do not look like they are too interested in selling any. Customers on one side and the sellers taking a break I guess.

Looking across from the Bazaar is the Friday Mosque we had just visited.

Bill checking out the meat as he walks down the meat section.

Notice the lack of refrigeration of any of the meats hanging out in the air.

More watermelons inside the Bazaar

Lots of fresh tomatoes for sale

Dried nuts and dried fruits

Look at all the fresh baked breads for sale

Great photo shot of inside the Bazaar. It one of the cleanest well kept Bazaars we have seen on the trip to date.

Purchasing that specific cut of beef. No refrigeration.

Bazaar is well organized.

Great selection of fresh fruits all locally grown.

More fresh break being delivered.

This break has to be only minutes old out of the ovens. Notice no wrapping protection around any of the breads we have seen.

Notice they are throwing watermelons from one person to the other to stack.

Inside the Historical Museum of Suchd Region lobby area. No cameras were allowed beyond this point.

Statue of Timur Malik a National Hero of the Tajik people. The new name honors a medieval military hero who in 1220 led the people of Khujand in their struggle against the Mongol occupation.

Khujand was a major city along the ancient Silk Road. After being captured by Alexander the Great in 329 BC, it was renamed Alexandria Eschate and has since been part of various empires in history, including the Umayyad Caliphate , 8th century, the Mongol Empire, 13th century, and the Russian empire, 19th century. Today, the majority of its population are ethnic Tajiks and the city is close to the borders of both Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan.

This morning after one last drive around the city, we see an old air plane in a city park for the kids to play around, maybe even in it. We then drove to the border crossing between Tajikistan and Uzbekistan and said goodbye to Boss, who was a fantastic guide in Tajikistan. Crossing these borders, is an adventure. You have to walk and drag your suitcase a long distance between the two borders and re enter again with the visas we had to get back into Uzbekistan. After two hours, walking between countries and immigration, we drove by bus back to Tashkent, Uzbekistan for the night. Then we flew in the morning to Almaty, Kazakhstan our next stop on the trip of The Stans.

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© 2025 Jim Schroder