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Sudan

Airport Addis Ababa, Ethiopia plane leaving for Khartoum, Sudan Hotel Lobby , Grand Holiday Villa, Khartoum, Sudan. Khartoum is the Capital and largest City in Sudan. The location is where the 2 Niles meet . The White Niles waters travel from Lake Victoria to the south from Kenya, Tanzania and Uganda and the Blue Nile from Ethiopia. They merge in Khartoum to form the main Nile River which continues to flow north towards Egypt and the Mediterranean Sea. Entrance Grand Holiday Villa. The country of Sudan is 1/4 the size of the US. It's neighbors are Chad and Central African Nation to the West. Egypt and Libya are to the North. Ethiopia and Eritrea to the east and South Sudan, Kenya, Tanzania and Uganda to the South. Inside our mini bus with guide Hameed starting out in Khartoum. The population of Khartoum is 3.6 milion Archaeological Museum - Sudan National Museum Lobby Entrance with old vehicles from years past Entrance rear main building housing many treasures Map of Sudan. Sudan is now divided into two countries Sudan and South Sudan. Area where we will be traveling Inside the Museum are many beautiful objects DSC_2337 DSC_2342 DSC_2344 Local students on a field trip to the Museum Bronze Lamp with incised design Bronze Head from the Meroitic Period Meroitic Period Information Statue of King Atlanesra, son of Taharqua Information of the period Garden entrance between the lobby area and the main building Kumma Temples The museum also contains two beautiful temples rescued bu UNESCO and moved from the Lake Nasser area, when it was flooded by the water from the dam in Egypt. Kumma Temple during reigns of Queen Hatchepsut and the Pharaohs of the Egyptian Middle Kingdom Kumma was part of a series of fortresses, known as Cataract Forts, probably to maintain control over movement up and down the Nile River for both military and economic purposes. Detailed work is still visible on the walls that have been moved to the museum for protection from the elements. DSC_2365 DSC_2366 Main building to the temple complex was in the lane on the Western side, consisting of a doorway with the Stone jambs for support. Local guard that after some persuasion became more friendly and actually smiled and followed us. DSC_2370 View of the protective buildings built for the protection of the Kumma Temples Protective building built from the Semna Temple that was moved when the Aswan Dam was built and the waters flooded the areas near Abu Simbel, Egypt. The Temple of Semna was built largely during the Rein of Pharaoh Tuthmosis III with the fortress of Semna and was dedicated to the Nubian God Dedwen. Guard and myself. Actually got him to smile before we left the area. DSC_2380 DSC_2381 Buhen Temple Temple was built by Queen Hatsheosut in 1500 BC Interesting how the late Tutmossis III cut out the Queens name and replaced it with his name Buhen Temple a large fortress constructed around 1860 BC. fortress extended over 490 feet long along the west bank of the Nile River. At its peak the population was around 3,500. Fortress included administration for the whole fortified region of the second Cataract. The walls of the fortress were 15 feet thick and 33 feet high. The location of the fortress is now underwater at Lake Nasser in Egypt. DSC_2388 DSC_2389 DSC_2390 After centuries the colors are still very vivid. DSC_2394 The guard with several members of our tour group DSC_2396 DSC_2397 In the background is the Corinthia Hotel Khartoum Local students touring the museum Nile Avenue with the Corinthia Hotel in the background The location where the White Nile and the Blue nile come together to form the Nile River. DSC_2410 Tomb of Mahdi. Omdurman, Sudan Muhammad Ahmad, also known as the Mahdi, is one of the most colorful and controversial Muslim figures of the 19th century. He is held by many as an ardent Sudanese Nationalist and champion of Sharia law, and vilified by many as a violent extremist and Jihadist. Both points of view recognize him as a determined foe of European colonialism and western cultural influences. Today he is honored as the national hero of Sudan. This is especially true in Khartoum, which he captured in a brilliant battle against the colonial army of Britain and their Egyptian allies. Though it is not a mosque, his shrine in Khartoum is generally considered to be the country’s most important Islamic shrine. Across the street is Khalifa's House which holds a small museum about Mahdyia . Police guards sit outside the entrance to the Khalifa's House. DSC_2417 A mosque located next to the Mahdi's tomb. DSC_2420 A former police motor scooter in ruins. When it falls apart in Sudan they leave it right where is stopped or collapsed. DSC_2425 DSC_2428 An antique carriage of yesterdays transportation Gatling gun from Mahdis Army 1883 DSC_2432 DSC_2434 Inside the Khalifa's House which is a museum about Mahdyia DSC_2437 Mahdi's tomb and, mosque from the Kahlifa's house Stairway ready to collapse at the Kahlifa's house Local stopping by at the Khalifi's house to see friends Inside the building that houses Mahdi's tomb Friendly locals outside the Mahdi's tomb building DSC_2449 Old fort at Omdurman Old river boat Preparing Sudanese coffee, very strong black coffee, after lunch for us Blue Nile and White Nile Rivers coming together to make the Nile River DSC_2464 DSC_2468 Graduation celebration at the hotel for a group of English Majors DSC_2477 The following photos are random shots around the Khartoum/Omdurman areas of town DSC_2479 DSC_2480 DSC_2482 DSC_2483 DSC_2485 DSC_2489 One thing you notice is if they drop paper or trash on the ground it stays there until the wind blows it on. DSC_2494 DSC_2496 DSC_2497 DSC_2498 DSC_2501 Young mother and child DSC_2505 DSC_2506 Outside the Souk, market place, in Khartoum I would have loved to take photos inside the old Souk, market, but we were forbidden to take in cameras. DSC_2513 Liter everywhere. One of the least clean markets I have seen in all my travels. At sunset we moved near the tomb of the sufri leader Ahmed al Nil to witness the Whirling Dervishes Ceremony only on Friday evenings. This is the graveyard prior to entering the main area. Men praying at the local outdoor mosque. Sufism is associated with both Sunni & Shia Islam. Those who practice it are called Sufis, or Dervishes. The Sufi order known as Tariqa, Qadiriyyah is one of the most widespread in Sudan & north Africa. It was established by Abdul Qadir Jilani (1077-1166 AD), a native of the Iranian province of Gilan. DSC_2521 DSC_2523 The ceremony starts with the Madeeh - chanting words of gratitude to the Prophet Mohamed. The audience interacts with the chanters, dancing to the rhythms of the percussion instruments. DSC_2526 Then comes the Zikr, in which the dervishes repeat the word 'Allah' many times. DSC_2533 The dervishes start whirling around inside the circle. With the music, the fragrance of burning frankincense, the endless repetition of religious chants, and the dizziness, they go into a state of trance According to ancient belief, Sufism is about the purification of the soul in pursuit of inner peace. The whirling dance came from the Mevlevi Order in Turkey, and is just one of the physical methods used to try to reach religious ecstasy DSC_2541 While the more well known Mevlevi dervishes wear white robes, Sudanese dervishes are often dressed in green and red Sufism started in Baghdad, and spread to Persia, India, north Africa, and Spain. Children enjoying evening taking it all in Another feature of the Sudanese dervish is the wearing of beads. The dervish elder pictured here has 1,000 beads wrapped around his neck — quite a weight to carry DSC_2554 Thousands turn out to see this each Friday evening DSC_2564 DSC_2569 DSC_2570 This mausoleum in Omdurman belongs to one of 19th century Qadiriyyah leaders, Hamad Al Nil. DSC_2575 Growing hair is a common practice among the dervishes, some keep it in dreadlocks while others just let it loose. DSC_2583 The ceremony is not all about devotional chanting, it is also a social and communal gathering where food is served for the needy. The throngs of men push in closer each time. At the close of the ceremony, just before sunset, one of the dervishes walks round the gathered audience with frankincense - which is considered to be a type of blessing to the faithful. DSC_2595 Eye contact.. one on one Although Sudan is in many ways a male-dominated society, women find themselves a place in the crowd. They gather in one corner wearing bright, colorful robes. See rear of photo. Just outside the circle where the Whirling Dervishes are participating is a small market or souk DSC_2618 DSC_2621 Men working come outside of the business to pray for the evening prayers Our travel group having dinner in a local restaurant in Khartoum. We ate outside iin a garden i of a traditional Lebanese Restaurant named Assaha DSC_2635 DSC_2636 Corinthia Hotel Khartoum was built by Mo Mar Gaddafi of Libya in 2008. The locals refer to it as Gadaffi's Egg. The hotel has 173 rooms, 57 suites, It is listed as a 5 star hotel. The hotel was designed to look like a ships sail. At night it is beautifully lighted. The swimming pool at the Grand Holiday Villa we are staying at night DSC_2647 Driving out of Khartoum DSC_2649 DSC_2650 Leaving the Nile behind One of many mosques in the city One of many sights in the city Every corner has a story of life and times in Sudan Furniture for sale along the highway Life is very hard in Sudan DSC_2663 DSC_2664 Everyone works DSC_2671 DSC_2673 Bananas anyone? You can find anything along the road DSC_2678 Auto parts shop DSC_2682 The temperature was over 100 degrees. Ladies how would you like to wear this every day of the year? DSC_2691 Taxi? Try this on our local freeways DSC_2695 DSC_2701 DSC_2702 Leaving one part of Khartoum to the next area. You have check points across the country. At the check point a young boy selling fruit. Huge tanker trucks carrying petroleum across the country. DSC_2712 Sudanese truck stop Lunch anyone? After 30 miles of driving out of Khartoum we drive into the desert area covered with huge round granite boulders. These are the last offshoots of the rocky formations of the 6th Cataract. We leave the asphalt road and we drive 20 miles on a desert track in r wheel drive land cruisers among many camel thorn acacia trees to visit two archaeological sites. We see a number of Bedouin children. Young boy riding a donkey in the Saharan desert scrub Musawwarat is the largest Meroitiv temple complex in Sudan. The enormous Great Enclosure consists of numerous tumbledown columns and wall carved with reliefs of wild animals that once inhabited this region. It was erected in the third century BC. The scheme of the site is, so far, without parallel in Nubia and ancient Egypt, and there is some debate about the purpose of the buildings, with suggestions including a college, a hospital, and an elephant-training camp. Musawwarat Temple Complex. Its main characteristic, the "Great Enclosure" is made by many constructions and boundary walls which surround a temple built in the 1st Century A.D. The settlement is located in a beautiful valley crossed by hills. Here the ruins of a very big temple are visible. The large number of elephants represented on these walls and pilars makes you think that this animal used to have an important role in this area. Carved items on the columns have survived the elements for centuries DSC_2740 DSC_2741 DSC_2742 The size of the temple is enormous DSC_2744 Trying to hide in some shade from the heat of the day DSC_2747 DSC_2748 DSC_2749 DSC_2751 The earliest material on the site relates to the Small Enclosure and dates from the Kushite Period. The two main buildings that of the Lion Temple and the Great Enclosure are dated to the reign of Arnekhamani (c.235-218 BC). These are the walls of another temple restored by a German Archaeological mission dedicated to the god Apedemak., The Lion Temple. Apademak, was a lion-headed warrior god worshiped by the Meroitic peoples inhabiting Nubia DSC_2755 DSC_2756 DSC_2757 Locals passing on donkeys DSC_2761 Inside the temple dedicated to the god Apedemak. Locals stopping to check out the tourists.. us Talk about a hard life on the Sudanese desert Picnic lunch under the shade of a tree in the mid day heat We carried all the food provisions for daily lunch including tables, chairs and eating utensils DSC_2768 Locals waiting for food that we do not eat. We gladly give them all that is left over from the lunch. They are very grateful. Traveling in style across the Sudanese desert The truck breaks down and we all get out to jump start it by pushing. It worked. Here comes another truck Naqa is a ruined ancient city of the Kushitic Kingdom of Meroe in modern-day Sudan. It is one of the largest ruined sites in the country and indicates an important ancient city once stood in the location. The site has two notable temples, one devoted to Amun and the other to Apedemak which also has a Roman kiosk nearby. Amun temple of Naqa The site of Naqa is one of the two centers that developed during the Meroitic period. In Naqa, in a typical Saharan environment with rocks and sand, we find a temple dedicated to Apedemak (1st Century A.D.). A wonderful building with bas-relief decorations depicting the god with a lions head, the Pharaoh, nobleman and several ritual images. Local guide. He was very interesting in describing this temple The Temple of Amun is an archaeological site at Jebel Barkal in Northern State, Sudan. It is situated about 400 kilometres (250 mi) north of Khartoum near Karima. Our land cruisers parked in the shade of a tree The Temple of Amun, one of the larger temples at Jebel Barkal, is considered sacred to the local population. Not only was the Amun temple a main centre of what at one time was considered to be an almost universal religion, but, along with the other archaeological sites at Jebel Barkal, it was representative of the revival of Egyptian religious values. The temple stands near a large bend of the Nile River, in the region that was called Nubia in ancient times. Guide pointing out important hyroglifics In the foreground is the Roman kiosk is a small temple near the main temple building, which has strong Hellenistic elements. The entrance to the kiosk is Egyptian and is topped by a lintel with a row of sacred ureaus (cobras) but the sides consists of columns with florid Corinthian capitals arched windows in the Roman style. The rear Temple is the Apedemak Temple. Up to the middle of the 19th century, the temple was subjected to vandalism, destruction, and indiscriminate plundering, before it came under state protection Apedemak was a lion-headed warrior god worshiped in Nubia. The god was used as a sacred guardian of the deceased hereditary chief, prince or king. Anyone who touched the chief's grave was said to be cursed by this Apedemak.The relief on the right pylon of the Apedemak Temple depicting Queen Amanitore smiting her enemies DSC_2794 DSC_2796 DSC_2797 DSC_2798 All of these carvings into the sandstone have lasted through centuries. Amazing. DSC_2800 Additional ruins in the distance of the temples. DSC_2806 DSC_2807 A local riding a camel added to the ambiance as he rode by. Local transportation in the Saharan desert DSC_2813 Sunset outside of Meroe Camp. First sightings of the Royal Necropolis of Meroe DSC_2819 Sunset and the Saharan Desert with power lines running through the area. The old and the new. DSC_2823 DSC_2825 First light in the morning seeing the The Royal Necropolis of Meroe from a distance from our overnight camp. It is located 4 miles from the Nile on some hills covered by yellow sand dunes. Monroe tented Camp overlooks the beautiful pyramids of Meroe.. This building is the restaurant run by an Italian manager. Camel riders just behind where we were sleeping. Accommodations are twin bedded tents each having a private bathroom and shower in a separate building behind the tents. The fronts face the Royal Necropolis and offers great views of the 40 pyramids in the distance. You have electricity until 11 p.m. by generator. Inside the tent. The night time sky was incredible. No light pollution. You could see incredible galaxies and even several falling stars. It was awesome. Young boys waiting to hopefully make a sale Vehicles in the foreground waiting to take us over to visit The Royal Necropolis of Meroe Nubian pyramids are pyramids that were built by the rulers of the ancient Kushite kingdoms. The area of the Nile valley known as Nubia, which lies within present day Sudan, was home to three Kushite kingdoms during antiquity. The first had its capital at Kerma (2600–1520 BC). The second was centered on Napata (1000–300 BC). Finally, the last kingdom was centered on Meroë (300 BC–AD 300). On our drive to Royal Necropolis of Meroe we stopped at caves for a visit before walking into the Necropolis. As you can see they were loaded with bats flying as we approached. DSC_2847 DSC_2854 DSC_2855 We attracted a group of camel riders hoping to give us a ride on the camels for a price. DSC_2863 DSC_2864 Pyramids of the Kushite rulers at Meroë. Near the site are a group of villages called Bagrawiyah. This city was the capital of the Kingdom of Kush for several centuries. The Kushitic Kingdom of Meroë gave its name to the Island of Meroë Approximately 255 pyramids were eventually constructed at three sites in Nubia, thus called Nubian pyramids, over a period of a few hundred years to serve as tombs for the kings and queens of Napata and Meroë The most extensive Nubian pyramid site is at Meroë, which is located between the fifth and sixth cataracts of the Nile, approximately 62 miles north of Khartoum. During the Meroitic period, over forty queens and kings were buried there. The physical proportions of Nubian pyramids differ markedly from the Egyptian edifices. All of the pyramid tombs of Nubia were plundered in ancient times. Wall reliefs preserved in the tomb chapels reveal that their royal occupants were mummified, covered with jewellery and laid to rest in wooden mummy cases. Several pyramids stand out with their sharp shapes against the clear sky. Each one has its own funerary chapel with the walls fully decorated with bas-reliefs that show the king's life and offers to the gods. DSC_2874 Only several of the pyramids have been rebuilt. The sands of the Sudan are reclaiming the temples as fast as they are unearthed. DSC_2879 DSC_2880 This necropolis was the burial place of 21 kings and 52 queens and princes including Anlami and Aspelta. The bodies of these kings were placed in huge granite sarcophagi. Aspelta's weighed 15.5 tons, and its lid weighed four tons. The oldest and largest pyramid at Nuri is that of the Napatan king and Twenty-fifth Dynasty pharaoh Taharqa The Meroe Camp where we are staying in the distance Nubian Desert, Sudan, Nahr an Nil province. Meroe Necropolis listed as World Heritage by UNESCO Camels in the foreground Camel and riders waiting for potential customers to ride several blocks across the desert floor. DSC_2889 DSC_2892 DSC_2893 DSC_2894 DSC_2896 DSC_2897 DSC_2899 It is a hard life to live in the areas of the desert. DSC_2901 DSC_2905 The Meroe Camp DSC_2908 Workers working to restore another pyramid Your can see how the sands are reclaiming the discovered pyramids DSC_2914 DSC_2916 Remanents of the Royal city DSC_2918 Break time taking refuge from the hot sun under a tree checking out the few tourists that may have come. Kids are curious of the strangers walking by. Not many tourists in this part of the world. Little one trying to sell replicas of the pyramids. I bought one. DSC_2924 DSC_2925 One thing you do not see is children overweight. They are all thin built. It was a hot afternoon visiting the ruins of the Royal City. The sand and wind are buying these structures too. One of my favorite photos of the trip with the wind in the sand and the sun setting. This has to be a prize winner with the sun setting red on the sand with the lone bush in the desert scape. DSC_2957 Sun setting on top of a pyramid Sunset on the Necropolis The sand in the foreground looks like a carpet draped over the landscape. DSC_3050 Sun just about gone for the day Early morning wake up at the tent with coffee in hand Dining room and Kitchen Hard working young guys Breakfast I introduced myself to the chef DSC_3066 He does a lot of cooking with limited equipment Restaurant crew and the Italian General Manager, in the foreground. Farmer plowing his fields as they have done for centuries DSC_3074 No machinery here. Everything is done by hand Crossing the Nile with the ponton, the local ferry boat, to enter the Bayuda desert. You wonder what keeps it a float. Nile River You cross from dirt road to dirt road on the otherside of the river. During the quick crossing old friends catch up on what is happening. A local woman crossing alone Kids riding a donkey... 3 on a donkey that is. We find ourselves sharing space with people, donkeys, camels and goats. Check out the local transportation Local mosque We stopped to buy some of the delicious bread made daily. Young boy checking out the strangers,, us. The Bayuda Desert is an area bounded by the loop formed by the Nile between the 4th and the 6th Cataract and characterized by the sharp black basalt mountains. Most of them volcanic and typically cone shaped. The area alternates with level pebble stretches and large valleys crossed by dry wadis, a valley, ravine, or channel that is dry except in the rainy season. Little vegetation survives with dorcas gazelles can be seen. Only isolated groups of Bisharin nomads, who live in familiar groups in small huts made of intertwined branches close to rare water wells, with their caravans and herds of camels and donkeys exist. A well, rare in the area DSC_3098 The Bisharin speak the Beja language as a mother tongue but they also speak Egyptian Arabic The Bisharin are traditionally nomadic people, working in husbandry of camels, sheep, and goats in the Southern part of the Eastern Desert The temperatures in the area can reach into the 110 and higher. DSC_3102 It's an area that is off the beaten path- largely unexplored. Of the tribes in the area, this tribe lives in the more remote areas. The Bishari and the Bishari Qamhat, believed to be ancient Bishari, have traded agricultural commodities with other people since ancient times The women do so much of the hard work. Once they pull the water from the well hundred or more feet up from the water level they then carry the water on goats while walking along side for miles back to camps. DSC_3111 DSC_3112 The young boys just stand to the side while the women work tirelessly DSC_3118 Young boy entering the well area on a camel. DSC_3121 DSC_3123 Another camp we came across. We drove across sand dunes for hours on no roads at all. The wife returning from a well across the desert DSC_3131 This family is lucky to have several donkeys Living among the sand dunes, blowing wind and heat takes it toll on everyone. Hameed our guide talks with the villager Hamed gives our nomad friend an orange. A very nice gift. After driving for some hours across the Bayuda Desert we come across a typical Bisharin nomad family camp. After driving for some hours across the Bayuda Desert we come across a typical Bisharin nomad family camp DSC_3143 Inside of the hut with intertwined branches there is no stopping the endless wind, heat and dust. Inside this is a luxury home for a nomad family The only young boy we saw in camp during the visit. It is not uncommon for a husband to have several wives and children from each wive all living together. The kitchen in a separate area from the main living area DSC_3150 DSC_3151 Young lady proud of her kitchen Another living area of the camp The inside. Imagine the wind and sand constantly blowing with extreme heat, no bathroom facilities anywhere in sight. Beautiful young woman Outside of what we have been looking into The opposite end of the stick mud home. Inside of the main home. The matriarch of the family is over 95 we are told. She has never known an airplane ride, visit to large cities. Lived her entire life in the Bayuda Desert with the groups of Bisharin nomads. The average life span is in the early 50's. She has lived among generations of this family. Countless wives of family members. The toll of living in this forboding land is shown in the lines on her face. New mother with her infant only days old. When she marries she goes to live with the husbands family. When giving first birth she returns to her family for the first month. Marriages are arranged marriage usually with first cousins. Young girl. We saw no men in camp during the day time hours. They were out with livestock After driving another hour we came across another family of women and children. I am sure some of the wives were with one husbad. Notice the beauty marks tattooed on each side of the face. DSC_3179 The men in the photo with women and children were our 5 drivers of vehicles. DSC_3183 DSC_3184 Some of the children we saw on this journey among the Bisharin nomads had a lost look on their faces. Unfortunately I believe this could have been caused by marrying within the families. No matter where you are in the world it is a delight to interact with the children. The opportunities in this part of the world are almost at zero for these children. Yet they have wonderful smiles on their faces and a great curiosity of these visitors. Notice the home of sticks to the rear. This was the only structure at this location for all these children, women and family to live. DSC_3189 DSC_3190 DSC_3191 These Bisharin nomads have no means to the outside world. Only survival to the next day. We are so lucky to live where we do in the western world. These families live with the winds blowing constatnly from sand dunes. The heat is oppressive. They travel miles on foot with donkeys to obtain water from wells that are 200 feet deep. Who knows where they obtain their food to eat. There are no bathrooms as we know it. Yet they are happy. When we depart we leave fruit and food gifts for them for permitting us to stop for s short visit and photograph them. We are so lucky. A group of eight well preserved pyramids of the Meroitic Kingdo, 3rd century BCE, in front of the Gebel Barkal mountain. Back side of the Jebel Barkal which I slide down from the top along the loose sand to the bottom to exit the hill. Karima is a small town located on the right bank of the Nile, close to the famous archaeological site at the foot of Jebel Bakal, south of the 4th Cataract on the Nile river. The town is a small, dusty and calm village, where a big market takes place in the morning. Our stay in Karima is The Nubian Rest House. DSC_3204 The Nubian Rest House is a charming small hotel built in the typical Nubian style just at the foot of Jebel Barkal, the holy mountain of the old Egyptian and Nubian Pharaohs. It is surrounded by a large private enclosure, with a nice garden and leisure area. DSC_3208 View from the restaurant. Decor inside the hotel and restaurant came mainly from Italy with a rustic and elegant charm. Totally differnent from the rest of Sudan. An oasis. All buildings were made of brick covered by hand spread clay plaster as used in the Nubian era. Front entrance from the town The detail and age of the doors was very unique DSC_3221 Map indicating where Karima,Old Dodngola are located in relation to the Egyptian Border Closer look at the location in northern Sudan DSC_3226 One of the only lions you will find chiseled turning its head to its left Local shop keeper with colorful clothing Security guard sleeps in a bed up in the tree in the evening. Our trip tour guide explaining the large pots under the trees Jebel Barkal, the table-topped mountain hanging on the town’s south side, was sacred ground for the Egyptians at the time of the 18th-dynasty Pharaohs. Both they and the Kushites believed that the mountain was home to the god Amun Hameed in front of Jebel Barkal Statue of Ram. Also note the fingernails of Hameed. He is a newly weed less than a month. As part of the ceremony in Sudan the men have theire fingere nails and toe nails painted red. The brides have Henna painted on their hands and arms. Naga's Temple of Amun. Naga consists of a large and well preserved Temple of Amun dating from the 1st century and the Lion Temple dedicated to the lion-headed god Apedemak. The exact purpose of the site remains unclear as it’s located in an area that has never really been inhabited. Jebel means mountain in Arabic. At the foot of the red sandstone mountain, considered holy since the ancient times, there is a big temple, dedicated to the Pharaohs of the New Reign and to their patron, Amon. DSC_3244 At the base of the mountain are some well-preserved pyramids (pictured), the Temple of Amun and the fresco-decorated Temple of Mut dedicated to the Egyptian sky goddess. Amon's ancient "Pure Mountain", the Olympus of the Nubians, was the religious Nubian heart for more than 1,000 years. DSC_3249 Inside the mountain wall there is a big room decorated with bas-relief Incredible still so bright from several thousand years underground with no light The reliefs are seen only with a phone light or flash light DSC_3264 DSC_3265 Incredible they have survived the elements underground all these years. Jebel alBarkal Pramids and temples Very few travelers make it to Sudan, but those who do normally come away raving about the wealth of ancient temples, monuments and tombs, which includes more pyramids than Egypt itself. DSC_3271 Petrified rocks DSC_3274 Locals checkout the Americans, A rare sight these days. Making the large water pots by hand Talk about a back breaking job. DSC_3284 El-Kurru was one of the royal cemeteries used by the Nubian royal family. Most of the pyramids date to the early part of the Kushite period, from Alara of Nubia (795–752 BC) to King Nastasen (335–315 BC). This is the entrance to one of the underground tombs. The colors still vivid after centuries buried underground DSC_3298 Color Blue represented the sky The ‎burial chamber of Pharaoh Tanwetamani is decorated in the classical ‎style we associate with ancient Egypt. The ceiling is painted as a sky full of stars, while the walls tell the life story of Tanwetamani. However, there is a distinctive Nubian twist on this art as evidenced by the cobras – an important Nubian symbol As an interesting “oh by the way”, the Kushite rulers were well known for their love of horses. In the royal necropolis at El-Kurru, a large section of the cemetery was set aside specifically for horses, whose bodies were adorned with elaborate trappings of silver, gold, faience, and shells DSC_3311 Blue sky and stars DSC_3313 View from atop Jebel Barkal and The Nubian Rest House compound. It is a steep climb to get to the top of the Jebel Barkal. A number of our group dropped out. As you can see the desert goes on for hundreds of miles. View of the Karima Pyramids seen from Jebel Barkal View of the Nile River View of Amun Temple below from Jebel Barkal Backup 3 feet and it is straight down 3,000 feet Hameed and Jim on Jebel Barkal Our vehicles and drivers waiting down below DSC_3335 alBarka Pyramids and Temples below Carole Ann waiting at the bottom of Jebel Barkal Sun setting over the pyramids A photographer caught me using the bathroom of the desert... a tree The relentless sand of the desert.. always moving The desert is really beautiful in its own way with shadows, colors of sand and the wind constantly changing it. Talk about desolate. No humans around for miles Many cemeteries in Sudan are characterized by the presence of some large conical-shaped tombs. They are called 'Qubba' and are used as a funerary monument for leading Muslim religious figures The rocks tilted up in the foreground are actually markers of persons deceased. Hameed explaining the Muslim burial and grave marker View inside one of the conical-shaped tombs Nile and another crossing in the distance Nile River flowing towards the Egypt border DSC_3361 The medieval city of Old Dongola More remnants of the medevil city of Old Dongola We stopped to visit a local farmer and his family for tea The local farmer Local village with their own brand of 21st century transportation. A donkey like thousands of years. Local delivery truck 21st century. He gets good mileage from his donkey. Muslim ladies in the middle of the hot day walking near their village. Ladies take note please. Grandfather and grandson It is difficult to determine ages of anyone due to intense heat and son on the body We stopped at a local home for lunch. Beautiful women Beautiful wardrobe clothing worn by the ladies. Notice the henna on the hand. She has been in a wedding very recently. Young mother and son Small villages in Sudan DSC_3386 DSC_3387 Life in Sudan's small villages Going to a well to get water for his family Daily market DSC_3394 Shoes for sale.. most likely used too DSC_3396 DSC_3397 DSC_3400 Lots of local bananas for sale DSC_3405 Tuk Tuk local taxis - 3 wheeled charged battery transportation DSC_3409 One of few gas stations we saw on the trip within Sudan Today we boarded a small launch on the Nile River near the 4th Cataract, which prevented the Nile from flowing slowly and formed many rapids that obstructed navigation in years past. Snapped a photo of a local flower that I have never seen before Cataracts Large monitor lizard At the end of the river trip we came upon a group of men making mud bricks and drying them in the dirt Talk about hard work Their living conditions. When someone complains to you about their job remind them of these workers in Sudan working for very little wages. Group photo of our drivers back at the Nubian Guest House gate. Hammed and our driver Jim, driver, Carole, Hameed and Bill Another group photo Map showing where we have traveled the last week or more. DSC_3448 Map of downtown Karima DSC_3453 DSC_3454 Hameed dressed in his finest for the evening Young lady at the Nubian Rest House DSC_3471 Young lady that was painting henna on another guests hands and arms Entertainment before dinner He is playing an authentic old European Lyre or Harp DSC_3491 DSC_3492 DSC_3496 DSC_3500 Drivers joining in on the fun and music DSC_3509 Group photo of Hameed, drivers and musican The pyramids of Nuri together with other buildings in the region around GJbel Barkal have been placed on the UNESCO list of world cultural heritage sites The pyramids of Nuri are built on two separate plateaus. The highest point in the cemetery is taken up by Taharqa's pyramid on the western plateau Hameed explaining what we are visiting at Nuri A group of locals walking through the area we were visiting The pyramids of the other kings are located on the eastern plateau. The pyramids of the royal women are placed closer to Taharqa's pyramid on the western plateau. These pyramids fall into three groups: Twins They were very curious about the camera that I had. I showed them how it works and then handed it to each of them to take some photos. They did very well. Each brother took a photo of myslef and the other twin They were intrigued. So much so they followed me for over an hour and more of their firneds joined us. Most of the King's Wives were buried in the parallel rows just north of Taharqa's tomb. The tombs to the far north were much smaller and may have been built for wives of lesser rank. The twins shot all these next photos DSC_3543 DSC_3545 The father came over and asked to have a photo of us together. He had been watching hiis sons, the twins, interact with me and was very proud of them. I always use the words... "Friendship moves the world". This was one of those moments with the sons taking the photos of us with my camera and the Dad with his hand on my shoulder. Two strangers.. now friends. I found out that the Father was in charge of taking care of this UNESCO site. The first, and most significant, ruler buried here was the Pharaoh Taharqa of the 25th Dynasty. Naturally, his tomb, along with all of the others, was looted thousands of years ago There have been 82 tombs discovered at Nuri so far with most, but not all, incorporating a pyramid. The last burial here is thought to have taken place around 310 BC: DSC_3557 A closeup of the red sandstone bricks that make up the majority of the structure of the pyramids. Having fun with new friends made at this stop Hameed, Jim and Bill DSC_3565 DSC_3566 DSC_3572 DSC_3574 DSC_3578 Faces of young people in Sudan To think that the kids in the US fight for clothes that have a name on it. DSC_3584 DSC_3585 DSC_3587 Some of the children here also have that lost look from the parents marrying their first cousins. Sun rising over the The Nubian Rest House roof Is there room for one more? Bus stop for road to Khartoum The following photos are everyday life in Sudan DSC_3610 Looks like a father and son DSC_3612 DSC_3613 Some things do not change no matter where you are in the world. Cheking ycour phone constantly. DSC_3617 Notice the intricate entrance to the bus inside DSC_3620 DSC_3621 Solitude DSC_3625 Hameed clowning around DSC_3631 How can any animal or human exist in this terrain? they do. Camel crossing Young camels Lunch stop at a simple "chai house" A few friends that I met at a truck stop for lunch. Returning into Khartoum again Who do you think won this race? Welcome back to Khartoum What do you think our environmentalists would say??? Do you think they are worried about global warming here? DSC_3656 DSC_3657 Interesting sign Returning to the Grand Villa Hotel in Khartoum we find a large wedding happening Beautiful Bride and Handsome Groom. Notice the henna on the brides hands and fore arm Notice the Muslim Brides Maids to the left and the Christian Brides Maids to the right DSC_3664 The Brides Maids also have the henna on their hands and fore arms. It takes several months for it to wear off too. Oh yes, they invited me to join the reception. The wedding Crasher strikes again... DSC_3670 Congratulations to the Bride and Goom
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