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Iceland

June 19, 2014  Flying from San Diego, California via New York to Reykjavik, Iceland. This overnight flight leads to a magical Island of pure and unspoiled natural beauty. The first sights of Iceland.. but wait it is Green and not Ice.. yes it is close to the longest day of the year and the  beginning of a great adventure. Iceland is one of the least  populated nations on earth. Iceland is a verdant paradise of electric green valleys with mountains, steaming hot springs, boiling mud pools and lava fields. Hard working locals  make a living from both the sea and the land. Locals who work hard in farming  communities and in fishing villages We will discover the history of this isolated nation preserved in a series of enchanting medieval tales know as Sagas. We are on our final approach to Keflavik International Airport in the early morning hours about an hours drive to Reykjavik, Iceland the principal city and Capital of this beautiful nation. Reykjavík is the capital and largest city of Iceland making it the world's northernmost capital of a sovereign state Reykjavik is located in southwestern Iceland, on the southern shore of Faxaflói bay with a population of around 131,136 It is the center of Iceland's cultural, economic, and governmental activity, and is a popular tourist destination. The building you see is Harpa, Reykjavik’s concert and conference hall. The city was founded in 1785 as an official trading town and grew steadily over the following decades, as it transformed into a regional and later national center of commerce, population, and governmental activities. At 64° north, Reykjavik is characterized by extremes of day and night length over the course of the year From 20 May to 24 July, daylight is essentially permanent as the sun never gets more than 5° below the horizon. Day length drops to less than five hours between 2 December and 10 January. The sun climbs just 3° above the horizon during this time. However, day length begins increasing rapidly during January and by month's end there are seven hours of daylight. Iceland has a sculpture honoring — and lightly satirizing — the thankless, anonymous job of the bureaucrat. The 1994 sculpture by Magnús Tómasson depicts a man in a suit holding a briefcase, with his head and shoulders buried in a slab of unsculpted stone. Back of the Parliament building with a small park Ironically the clock has advertising below for a  Penis Museum. Yes you read that right. The building behind Heraosdomur is the District Courthouse. Interesting advertising in front of it. Street view with the District Courthouse to the right in the photo. Street view going up the hill away from the Courthouse toward the Iconic Church Hallgrímskirkja Church . Interesting local restaurants to enjoy with great fresh seafood Popular corner to meet and people watch Many neat shops to stroll around and visit Great way to say pedistrian and bikes only First view of the Iconic Church Hallgrímskirkja Church . Great window shopping Not quite sure what this was about Hallgrímskirkja Church is without a doubt Reykjavik’s most iconic building. The church, designed by the state architect Guðjón Samúelsson, was constructed from 1945 to 1986. Hallgrimskirkja, which is 244 ft tall, is Iceland’s second tallest building, after the Smáratorg Tower in Kópavogur This heroic-looking man is Leifur Eirícsson – the first known European to have discovered the continent of North America. According to Icelandic Sagas, he arrived in Vinland (now Newfoundland in Canada) around 1000 and established a Norse settlement in the new land Hallgrimskirkja’s enormous size was also frequently debated; at that time there were few tall buildings in Iceland and the surrounding houses looked tiny compared to this huge church. The church was built during times of inflation and that made financing the construction hard. Disunity about the church’s design didn’t help either. When the church was finally inaugurated in 1986, 65% of the construction costs had been covered by parishioners.   The façade of Hallgrímskirkja is, like several other buildings in Iceland, inspired by columnar basalts. Other elements of the church are also inspired by Icelandic nature, such as volcanoes, geysers and the vast wilderness. Interior view with the magnificent organ pipes on the forward wall The church’s interior is impressive too, although it hardly rivals the unique exterior. The most notable feature of the interior is probably the 50 ft tall Klais organ, which is the largest musical instrument in Iceland. It consists of 5275 pipes and weighs 50,000 pounds. View of the organ with the keys closed for viewing. DSC_9361 The back of the Statue of Leif Eiricsson.  Ironically the white building to the left there is a restaurant called Loki, which means in Icelandic, the God of Mischief. They make the best Fish Stew that I have had anywhere in the world. I had two dinners it was so good. Walking back to the hotel I ran into the one and only in the world "The  Penis Museum". I did not go in. I looked up on line what could be inside. The Icelandic Phallological Museum contains a collection of more than two hundred and fifteen penises and penile parts belonging to almost all the land and sea mammals that can be found in Iceland. There is also an Icelandic Punk Museum  in town I discovered.  Totally different types of museums. Visitors to the museum will encounter fifty six specimens belonging to seventeen different kinds of whale, one specimen taken from a rogue polar bear, thirty-six specimens belonging to seven different kinds of seal and walrus, and one hundred and fifteen specimens originating from twenty different kinds of land mammal: all in all, a total of two hundred and nine specimens belonging to forty six different kinds of mammal, including specimens from Homo Sapiens. Höfði was built in 1909.   Höfði was originally built for the French consul in Iceland. The historical event that Höfði owes its fame to is the 1986 meeting of Mikhail Gorbatsjov and Ronald Reagan. This event, as you probably know already, marked the end of the Cold War. Different view of Harpa  Reykjavik's Concert and Conference Hall on the bay. Freeways leading into and out of Reykjavik Placards or cut outs of sheep and cows propped up on the hill Outside of Reykjavik are found the rolling meadows of the verdant Borgarfjordur agriculture district where also are found hot springs. As you can see in the photo Iceland is more green I believe than Ireland in the spring and summer months of the year. Mist clouds shroud the countryside in green and white colors. The bight color green is every where with the rain and misty climate of the island. DSC_9383 To get from one part of the island to the other tunnels have been bored through mountains. DSC_9390 Great grazing land abounds all around DSC_9402 The Magic waterfalls of Hraunfossar a 2,900 foot stretch of lava where crystal clear springs splash through rocks and birch scrub before tumbling into a river  that appears beneath the lava's edge. DSC_9404 DSC_9407 Barnafoss  water falls The next 2 photo slides  explains some history of the bridge you are seeing. See the Historical notes on the second slide for the story of the bridge. See the next slide for a larger version of the Historical Notes DSC_9413 Interesting wall ornament of types of cows We stopped by the side of the road and several of us climbed up into the volcanic rock ledge to look across the countryside. Van we are traveling in and the trailer behind with luggage. Colorful small flowers growing out of solid rock at the top edge of the plateau. Anywhere in Iceland where you see a small church on private property the owners do not have to pay taxes on the land. It is the law. So most all farmers place a very small intimate church and maybe have one service a year or wedding inside.  Clever tax move on the part of the owners of the land. The steam area of springs, Deildartunguhver thermal area is in a class by itself.  Emitting nearly 50 gallons of boiling water per second.  It is one of 250 hot springs districts around the country. It has the impression of the end of the world about to blow up. It is thermal steam emitting from the ground. The various springs reach temperatures of 212 F degrees and has been used for heating since 1925 make Iceland a pioneer in sustainable energy. Iceland is a land of tranquility and beauty. DSC_9441 DSC_9442 Helgafell the Holy Mountain, only 240 feet in height, has a breathtaking panoramic view across Breiðafjordur Bay. A viewing dial is at the top. A few of our group exploring the plateau of the Holy Mountain Helgafell. From the plateau of Helgafell one can see in the distance  the town of Stykkisholmur located on the Snaefellsnes Peninsula. Our stop for the next two evenings. In the distance is the town of Stykkisholmur. Photos in all directions showing the size of this Peninsulia Taking in the 360 degree view from the top. Magnificent. We are so lucky to have such a great local Icelandic guide with us on our trip of Iceland and a small  group of 11 only. Folklore advises anyone climbing the mountain for the first time to walk straight up without looking back or speaking and three wishes will be granted. The wishes have to be of good intent and the wisher tells no one and faces east when making them. A small remnant of a wall on the mountain top is dated 1184 and was a part of a nearby monastery built at this time Another group of tourists has just completed the climb at the top of Helgafell. Hopefully none of the group looked back or spoke any words thus receiving 3 good wishes.. Every trip somewhere along the journey I am lucky to find  a bride and groom. I guess the groom is still in hiding. Our Hotel Stykkishólmskirkja  Church, a Lutheran Church, is a white concrete structure consecrated in 1980. It stands on a promontory overlooking the town of Stykkishólmur in western Iceland, on the northern edge of Snæfellsnes peninsula Stykkishólmur  is a town and municipality situated in the western part of Iceland, in the northern part of the Snæfellsnes peninsula. It is a center of services and commerce for the area. Most of the people make their living from fishing and tourism. The origin of Stykkishólmur can be traced to its natural harbor. Old graveyard int he center of the village near the bay The location became an important trading post early in Iceland’s history: the first trading post in Stykkishólmur is traced back to the mid-16th century, even before Denmark implemented the Danish–Icelandic Trade Monopoly 1602 – 1787. Every year on the second or third weekend in August, the people in Stykkishólmur celebrate the Danskir dagar ("Danish days") festival, which honors the town's historic connections with Denmark. The festival has been held every year since 1994. Stykkishólmur is the largest town on the Snæfellsnes peninsula. This is a fishing town, and a number of boat trips operate from Stykkishólmur to the wide Breiðafjörður fjord - including the ferry Baldur that crosses Breiðafjörður to reach the Westfjords. I stopped to admire this steel sailboat sculpture near the harbor Hill off in the distance with the ground protruding straight up into the sky. DSC_9475 You can see the iron ore close up on the hill. Amazing how mother nature creates such beauty around the world. DSC_9477 Fun Facts about Stykkishólmur  •The whole town offers free Wi-Fi. •Plastic bags are banned, the locals of Stykkishólmur like to keep it green and clean. •They have an excellent basketball team called Snæfell, one of the best in Iceland. •Stykkishólmur was featured in the Hollywood movie The Secret Life of Walter Mitty. Stykkishólmur is another location that has found fame through film, although it was used to depict Nuuk in Greenland in the film The Secret Life of Walter Mitty. This photo was take on June 22, the day of the Summer Solstice at midnight. Notice the sun is just dipping on the horizon at midnight and not setting at all and then begins to rise in the sky for a new day. . Another photo close up of the Summer Solstice in Stykkisholmur. Almost 1 a.m. in the morning, surrounded in evening light from the sun that does not set this time of year. The entrance, of the church, lies between two sweeping arms leading up to the bell tower. The style is modernistic, in common with many Icelandic churches; its appearance incongruous against the surrounding landscape. The church is also used as a concert venue. A spectacular sight against the night time sky. Just outside Stykkisholmur we drive into the Snaefellsnes Peninsula.  Barren land for miles in all directions. DSC_9491 DSC_9493 Beggi Alfhorsson is our guide in Iceland and Greenland.  He is explaining the history of the Snaefellsnes Peninsula and some of the folk lore here. Look at the beauty of the land all around where he is speaking to us. Every once in a while I have to have a photo taken. The land all around is magnificent. Snæfellsnes Peninsula has sparkling fjords, dramatic volcanic peaks, sheer sea cliffs, sweeping golden beaches and crunchy lava flows make up the diverse and fascinating landscape Beautiful countryside Not a passing car for hours in either direction. You are really alone with nature in Iceland. DSC_9516 Oh to learn how to pronounce the names of towns in Iceland. Continuing on the Snaefellsnes we explore the area that marks the entry point to Jules Verne's Journey to the Center of the Earth Movie where it was filmed. DSC_9526 DSC_9527 We walk the area along the rugged coastline. We pass an abandoned fishing village of Arnarstapi, known for its constantly changing weather. In the distance a little civilization. The abandoned fishing village is situated along a coastline punctuated by fascinating geologic features like arches, caves, basalt cliffs and blowholes. Rumor has it to keep an eye out for elves and hidden people that are said to inhabit this countryside..  Looks like one on the rock to me. Our ultimate destination  while hiking this morning along the dramatic rocky coastline followed by lunch in the Hellnar Valley. We spot a red house with a blue roof in the middle of no where. Seems like everyone likes to leave a rock monument stacked carefully. DSC_9542 Our walk was about 3 1/2 miles. We were very lucky as it was sunny the entire walk over jagged rocks and up and down trails. It can also be very wet and slippery in the rainy season which changes within minutes somedays. Hellnar was once a thriving fishing village inhabited somce the 11th century. .Today it was l;unch. You can see the trail with people  coming in from the distance passing by the restaurant.  Also at the top of the photo is a glimpse of the house with the blue roof. Snow almost down to the highway in late June. DSC_9556 Arnarstapi  lava field We were encircled several times by the Arctic Terns. Arctic Terns are fascinating birds. The individuals that nest here have the second-longest migration route of any animal in the world, travelling up to 49,700 miles every year on a round trip from Iceland to Antarctica. They are beaten only by their counterparts that nest in the Netherlands, whose route covers around 55,900 miles.. Arnarstapi or Stapi is a small fishing village at the foot of Mt. Stapafell between Hellnar village and Breidavik farms on the southern side of Snaefellsnes peninsula. Arnarstapi was an important trading post in the past and had a much bigger population than it has now. Today Arnarstapi is still a somewhat busy harbor during summer, with private fishing and recreational vessels filling the docks. DSC_9573 DSC_9577 DSC_9579 We visit a shark farm. The Shark Museum at Bjarnarhofn farm on the northern side of Snaefellsnes peninsula is where visitors can get a down-home taste of ‘real’ Iceland by meeting with the friendly curator and owner who reveals fascinating details about the local Greenland shark from which traditional ‘hakarl’ is made. Hakarl, a national delicacy made from aged shark meat and served with a potato liquor called brennivin.  Two members of our group try it. I did. It was not bad at all. A walk around the Shark Musem a Bjarnarhofn. DSC_9585 DSC_9586 I dare you to try and pronounce it. The Black-legged Kittiwake typically nests on cliff ledges, but will occasionally nest on buildings and shipwrecks. We had the opportunity to take an optional tour exploring Breidarfjorddur, an enormous bay. The bay stretches between the Vestfords and the Snaefellsness peninsula. The bay's width and rocky islands have made it an ideal nesting site for many bird species. The Atlantic puffin , also known as the common puffin, is a species of seabird in the auk family. It is the only puffin native to the Atlantic Ocean; two related species, the tufted puffin and the horned puffin, are found in the northeastern Pacific. The Atlantic puffin breeds in Iceland, Norway, Greenland, Newfoundland, Nova Scotia and the Faroe Islands, and as far south as Maine in the west and parts of Great Britain in the east. The bay is home to surprisingly large number of fish and shellfish so it is no surprise  that a highlight will be when the boat's net is cast and brings up fresh seafood and shellfish. Look at this bonanza of shellfish and other varieties of great fresh tasting items. DSC_9599 It was the best seafood and shellfish in many years. Never such a variety in my life. Scallops are characterized by offering two flavors and textures in one shell: the meat, called "scallop", which is firm and white, and the roe, called "coral", which is soft and often brightly coloued reddish-orange Like a Sea Urchin. Beggi was busy opening up shellfish for us to enjoy the delicacies DSC_9605 A number of shellfish and items were thrown back over board, such as all the star fish and other items,  as it was not big enough or needed to be returned to the sea floor. Starfish were returned to the ocean floor. We were only able to eat so much and then the balance was returned to the ocean. Icelandic Black bird Male and Female Black bird, black with an orange beak feeding their young ones in a nest built into a rock wall. View of Stykkisholmur from the top of the highest hill late in the evening. Another view of the city late into the evening hours.  You would never know it is night time. Looking across the landscape from atop a hill overlooking Stykkisholmur with ocean and mountains in the distance. Myself standing on a wind swept hill at 11 p.m. at night. Talk about light.  You would never guess the time of day. Greylag Geese walking through thick high grass looking for food in a pasture near the highway. We visit the living museum Eiriksstadir Museum, once the site of the home of Erik the Red, father of the legendary viking Leif Eriksson. So much for the sleeping accommodations. It leaves a little to be desired. Known as "Leif the Lucky",  Erik's famous son visited North America around 1000AD. Here we find a tourist, myself, dressed as Erick would have defending his home and land. The family occupied this farmstead until Leif was six years old, at which time they were exiled and went to Greenland.  Those beds do not look so comfortable. It is a unique historical place, where you can step back to the Viking Era and immerse yourself in the sights, sounds and scents of Erik the Red's farm The reconstruction of the longhouse based on the archaeological excavations is very well done. Better yet is the docent who knew what she was talking about even when asked detailed questions. The exterior and the interior makes me wonder what those cold dark winter nights with snow almost over the top of the long house for weeks and months on end must have made boys into men at a very early age. They learned the word Survival at a very early age. Our very informative and talented docent.  She made it very interesting for all of us. Statue of Leif Eiriksson DSC_9651 Yes in Iceland I wore shorts too. It did not matter what the temperature. I climbed up on a hill to get a perspective of the land.  You can see the Longhouse in the back ground.  Also from this location you can see how close they were to the sea also. A very interesting morning.. This afternoon we were very fortunate to visit a local horse farm to meet the Icelandic horses first brought to the country by Viking settlers. Also visiting today was a group of young school children out on a school trip to the horse farm. We were treated to see how the horses are worked in varying degrees of tricks, riding and horsemanship. Here we have a rider showing how smooth it can be riding the horse and carrying a beverage. We hope this is not the beginning of riding and drinking.   DWOAH.. Drinking  While On A Horse. . A little humor. A unique breed, they have adapted to the local climate with a think, heavy coat. Icelandic horses are a common sight across the countryside Though small in size, their strength is formidable, and they are known for their cheery disposition, bravery, intelligence and smooth gait. I also learned that if a horse is shipped overseas to another country that horse can never return to Iceland. That is how they control any outside diseases that could return with the horse. Beautiful coloration of the horses. This is our driver and yes they like to have their necks rubbed too . One last look at these beautiful animals. Hay that has been cut and rolled into plastic for protection from the long cold winter. We leave Stykkisholmur and drive towards Akureyri situated in the northern fjords just 40 miles from the Arctic Circle. The countryside is spectacular driving across it. I really think that Iceland is more green than Ireland in the summer months. There is so much water in Iceland from the melting  snow year round. Yes that is me on the bridge. A foursome out for the day with a picnic near the river. Looks like they have everything needed for a fun afternoon. Tired of riding that bike all the time.  Make it into art. At least someone did. DSC_9694 The ever changing landscape of Iceland.  Around every corner is something new. You can see how thick the ice is still from the winters snow pack.. Looking for a fixer upper that is leaning a little. DSC_9700 Sometimes you do not see another car  on the highway for hours sometimes.  Just you and beautiful rugged nature. DSC_9702 We are now in Akureyri.  This building has some strange architectural features. It appears the building is shifting and it was designed this way to have this appearance. This photo was taken at 1:30 in the morning. Look how light it is in late June. DSC_9709 Goðafoss is a waterfall in northern Iceland. It is located along the country's main ring road at the junction with the Sprengisandur highland road. The water of the river Skjálfandafljót falls from a height of 36 feet over a width of 90 feet The river rises in the Icelandic highlands and runs through the Bárdardalur valley. DSC_9715 DSC_9716 I wish we had a water fall like this in  Southern California where I live. We sure can use the water. In Iceland water flows every where it seems. DSC_9723 Mývatn is a shallow lake situated in an area of active volcanism in the north of Iceland, not far from Krafla volcano. It has a high amount of biological activity. The lake and the surrounding wetlands provides a habitat for a number of waterbirds, especially ducks. The lake was created by a large basaltic lava eruption 2300 years ago, and the surrounding landscape is dominated by volcanic land forms, including lava pillars and rootless vents. The effluent river Laxá is known for its rich fishing for brown trout and Atlantic salmon. Another view from the highway. Beggi explaining the pseudo crater field formed by steam explosions when lava flowed over wet earth at Skutustadir. It smelled like rotten eggs too. We view the large earthquake faults that run through Iceland in this area.  This is amazing to see. This area the earth has been affected by the Krafla caldera and Namaskard Geothermic areas nearby causing earthquakes and separation of the earth. Looking down into the earthquake driven faults. DSC_9739 The Skútustaðagígar pseudo-craters are located in the Lake Mývatn area. The craters themselves are not magma-producing volcanic vents but were formed by gas explosions when boiling lava flowed over the cool, wet surfaces about 2,300 years ago. The smell is worse than rotten eggs in the air. This area is known for its  whimsical "Black Castles" lava formations of Dimmuborgir. where it is said a lonely troll is said to have lived. According to legend, he was paid a visit by his friends, and they stayed up dancing and celebrating all night long..until the early light of the day turned them to stone. Walking by a large crater left by explosions millions of years ago. Looking down into the same crater. The ocean weaving in and out of the lush summertime green. In the distance is a reminder of the harsh winters with snow that never melts. DSC_9751 DSC_9754 Amazing how flowers spring forth from nothing but crushed volcanic rock. DSC_9757 It is hard to believe that from November until March it is dark almost all the days during this time. We were fortunate to see color in this part of the world in early summer DSC_9760 The flag of Iceland. The town of Akureyi is Iceland's fourth largest city. Even though Akureyri is only 40 miles from the Arctic Circle  is  not very  sunny but enjoys a mild climate in spite of its location. Nicknamed the "Capital of North Iceland", Akureyri is an important port and fishing center. The area where Akureyri is located was settled in the 9th century, but did not receive a municipal charter until 1786. From 1941-1943 during World War II, Akureyri was one of three air bases used by the Norwegian-British No. 330 Squadron RNoAF. Akureyri was an essential locality for the Allies and as a result, the borough expanded considerably after the war, through urbanization. Akureyrarkirkja church is one of the most photogenic photography spots in Iceland and coming from the land of ice and fire, that is very impressive!   Completed in 1940 and designed by Iceland's most renowned architect, Guðjón Samúelsson, the designer of Iceland's most famous church, Hallgrímskirkja in Reykjavík. Situated halfway up the ridge the Lutheran church looks down on its city. The world's northernmost botanical gardens are located in Akureyri! The garden is the finished result of the work started by the ‘Park Society’ committee, established by the women of Akureyri in 1910. Officially opening in 1912, the park was created as a place of peace and relaxation and also for scientific research DSC_9776 The project proved that a variety of shrubs, flowers, and trees are capable of growing within this close proximity to the Arctic Circle. Approximately 430 native Icelandic species of plant are thriving as a result of the project. DSC_9780 We were very lucky to have a Home Hosted Dinner this evening. Our host and hostess are standing at the door to their patio.  What a great evening and  a delicious dinner. Their beautiful home and carefully manicured gardens of the home.  What a great evening we all enjoyed. Our hotel Icelandair Akureyri Hotel in the center of the photo with snow in the mountains behind the city not far away. This morning we leave Akureyri and drive along the fjords to the small fishing village of Dalvik. DSC_9794 A small village on this side of the Fjord. A village on the opposite of the Fjord with green grass and snow in the distance. DSC_9801 Our destination the fishing village of Dalvik in the distance. DSC_9803 We drive to the fishing village of Dalvik where we set sail on a restored fishing vessel from the harbor for a whale watching excursion. Leaving the fishing village of Dalvik As you can see we were outfitted with some cold weather clothing which was very much appreciated in spite that it was the end of June summer. As we left the harbor and entered out into the sea the sky was incredible as you can see. DSC_9811 The staff onboard were experts on local marine life, and with their help we spotted dolphins, porpoises and followed for some time several humpback whales which we watched with great anticipation every time we saw one surface, swim and jump, and dive under I was really glad to have that warm coat over my clothes. It was cold on the Atlantic. Humpback whales are migratory and spend summers in feeding grounds in higher latitudes toward the Polar Regions where food is abundant. During the autumn and early winter, they migrate in the direction of the Equator to their mating grounds and may travel up to 10,563 miles every year. Here we have three swimming together.  Humpback whales are without a doubt among the liveliest of the larger whales at the surface. They commonly roll over, leap out of the sea and slap their fins and flukes on the surface with a lot of splashing. A mother and calf. Reproduction in the North Atlantic takes place during the period between December and April and peaks in February and March. Gestation lasts 11–12 months, with the females usually giving birth to a single calf. The females generally give birth every other year, and the older the mother, the more likely the calf is to survive. The calves suckle for only 6 months, although lactation can remain active for up to a year. They also often stick their head straight out of the ocean, probably to investigate conditions on the surface. This behavior is called spy-hopping. The calves learn the migration route by following their mothers to the feeding ground during their first spring and remain faithful to that area thereafter. Not all humpback whales appear to migrate every year. In such cases when they do not, they remain at the feeding grounds throughout the winter where the food is available all year round. Humpback whales are rather slow swimmers, traveling at around 5 mph during migration. They can, however, swim at up to 17 mph in shorter bursts. Deep dives are generally of short duration, or 10 minutes, as is common among other rorquals, although they can dive for up to 30 minutes to a depth of at least 820 ft. They often seek out boats and follow them for a while. Humpback whales are usually on their own, although it is not uncommon to see them in smaller groups consisting of 2–5 animals Humpback whales also come to Iceland during the summer months.  Humpbacks are renowned for their gregarious and acrobatic behavior. Basically, Humpback whales are the attention-seeking divas of the whale world.  It is common to see them on whale-watching tours; breaching, slapping their tails and flukes, or feeding. When you see a Hunchback expelling air this is the part of the body. This air is usually warmer than the air just above the surface of the ocean, so the water vapor (small particles of water carried in the air) condenses. ... So the “spout” you see is not a fountain of water; rather, it's a stream of warm air being forced out of the whales lungs, aka the whale's breath. These groups do not remain together for long, so they rarely form close bonds, with the exception of females and their calves. Hundreds of humpbacks can, however, congregate in areas where there is an abundance of food. The groups are particularly unstable in the feeding grounds during the summer and only stay together for a few hours at a time. In the breeding grounds in the winter, the groups variously consist of only males,  mother and calf or mother, calf and a few escorting males. The escorting males often follow the mother and calf for a long time waiting for an opportunity to mate. The largest and strongest male keeps the other escorting males away and is therefore the most likely to mate with the female. Humpback whales are famous for their complicated and varied vocalization. The males sing complicated and long songs during migration and during the mating season. These songs have been likened to birdsong, except humpback whale songs can last for up to an hour while birdsong lasts for only a few seconds. The object of the song has not been fully defined but is obviously linked to courtship. Every year, the males sing the same or a similar song at each mating station. The song, however, develops over time and differs between years. The songs are probably used to attract the females toward the males and may also help the males to keep a certain distance from each other. Females and males also emit a number of communication sounds that indicate either friendliness or dislike. When meeting and separating, they often emit various low-frequency sounds such as grunts, growls and woops. When indicating dislike, they emit a high-frequency scream. Calls at lower frequencies are probably used to let others know of their location. Humpback whales can live to at least 50 years of age, although their maximum life expectancy is not fully known. This photo is so cool... I made this up..  "I think land is that way"? The lone light house that is the entrance into the fjord and back to Dalvik Fishing  Village and harbor. Another fishing boat headed to the harbor Our tour group aboard the whale watching and fishing trip going home. The Captain with a Trip Advisor symbol in the window of the bridge. Some of us had  the opportunity to fish for 30 to 45 minutes before returning to port. I  believe the fish is Atlantic Cod. Here the fish we caught are being cleaned and filleted.  When we returned to dock they had a charcoal grill heated  and they cooked our catch for us to eat. It was SO good. You cannot get it any fresher out of the cold Icelandic waters. DSC_0235 We are now driving to another fishing village. What you are seeing is the area we motored on the fjords to the entrance of the Atlantic Ocean to search for  Humpback Whales. View across the fjords with a view of a few homes First sighting of the fishing village of Siglufjordur. Harbor at  Siglufjordur, Iceland's northern most town. We have a delicious lunch at Hannes Boy. It is a unique but homey restaurant that offers a cozy and romantic environment at Siglo's marina village. It is located in the bright yellow house by the marina in Siglufjordur. The restaurant is named after a local legend and fisherman. Another restaurant next door. The restaurant is open every day during the summertime, from June until the end of August. During wintertime, it is mostly open for groups or special occasions We were treated to Icelandic specialties including.. Icelandic Cod.  Delicious. Interesting room divider with the faces of locals from the past cut into glass. More faces on another divider, Beautiful View from above looking down into the dining room where we are to have lunch in a few minutes. These were some awesome wooden carvings of people in the area Must be his girlfriend waiting for him in the previous photo. The bar with the name of the restaurant also My two newest friends that I just met after lunch...Woody and Splinter.  Amazing all made  out of pieces of wood. Looking across the village of Siglufjordur, Iceland's northernmost town. At one time the Capital of the North Atlantic's herring industry. Beggi Alfhorsson, our guide giving us some history of the village and the museum we are about to visit. The Herring Era Museum., has 5 exhibition buildings. We are entering one of them. Entrance to another of the Herring Era Museum buildings. The building is called the Róaldsbrakki. Beggi is explainngg that the Herring Era Museum is the only of its kind in the world. It is Iceland's largest Maritime Museum. It features a variety of cultural exhibits, art works and personal stories and the rich fishing heritagie found within the buildings. View of the city in its hayday The name of the town the Museum is located. The spelling is almost impossible to pronounce.. These are the rooms of the workers . It was called The "brakki" and has been left largely in its original state, as the lodging for dozens of 'herring girls' who worked there during the summers. DSC_0279 Walking through their rooms on the third floor, one experiences the rich flavor of these times. Thousands of people flocked to Siglufjörður each herring season in search for a well paid job; herring girls, fishermen and other workers. Hundreds of herring girls came from around the country to work during the summer, and they would be housed in the stations where they were employed. So on the upper floor the living quarters are still standing, untouched – and it feels like the girls just ran out for work. Working outside under all kinds of conditions in front of  the Róaldsbrakki building. In front of Róaldsbrakki there is an old-fashioned pier with work stations for the salting process The exhibition in the Boathouse provides an impression of a typical North Iceland herring port during the period from 1938-1954. Eleven boats of various types and sizes lie at the dock DSC_0290 Norwegian fishermen came sailing on their herring vessels during the summer of 1903, and thereby the Herring Adventure had started. Within forty years this once tiny little village had transformed into a thriving town of more than three thousand inhabitants. For years the entire life of Siglufjörður centered on the herring catch and its processing - the town's twenty-three salting stations and five reducing factories were a living reminder of that. Siglufjörður was also one of the most important ports in Iceland and on more than one occasion the herring exported from the town accounted for over 20% of the nation's total exports. DSC_0295 Visitors can take a walk along the piers where ten boats and ships are docked, and you'll hear the sound of seagulls and waves breaking. Iceland's herring towns, indeed the country's entire employment and economic sectors, suffered a severe blow with the disappearance of the herring. During the late 1960s, herring accounted for up to half of Iceland's export income, and was crucial in powering the country's dizzying economic growth. The great herring adventure was over. When bad weather and storms broke, the sheltered waters of the fjord became home to a massed fleet of hundreds of herring ships What an amazing museum. Walking the dock area you had the feeling you were right among the fisherman. The photos show the real stories of life Herring fishing. As the herring adventure progressed, a goldrush-like atmosphere settled over the town, leading to Siglufjörður been dubbed the "Atlantic Klondike". Mývatn is a shallow lake situated in an area of active volcanism in the north of Iceland, not far from Krafla volcano. It has a high amount of biological activity. Visiting the lava formations of Dimmuborgir were we visit the "black Castles". This is where a lonely troll is said to have lived. Beggi our guide is explaing the legend of the lonely Troll. According legend, he was paid a visit by his friends, and they stayed up dancing and celebrating all night long --until the light of morning turned them to stone. The lake and the surrounding wetlands provides a habitat for a number of waterbirds, especially ducks.gyrfalcons, plovers, ptarmigns, and more. We have now flown back to Reykjavik and left the city to enjoy the Southern Iceland to discover Iceland's marvels as we circumnavigate the Golden Circle, a ring of natural highlighs. This is Thingvellir National Park, Geyser hot springs area and Gullfoss waterfall. Thingvellir National Park is the location of a major rift between two tectonic plates.  The European and North American which creates a dramatic and growing fissure in the land. Thingvellir is the National Park where the,  Althing,, an open-air assembly representing the whole of Iceland, was established in 930 and continued to meet until 1798. Over two weeks a year, the assembly set laws - seen as a covenant between free men - and settled disputes. It is interesting in that these fissures in the earth continually have erupted for centuries. Its history dating back to the establishment of the Alþing gives insight into how a Viking Age pioneer community organized its society from scratch and evolved towards the modern world. Geysir, the name of the Geysers, erupts frequently in dramatic columns of water that shoot into the air. In this area of intense geothermal activity, puddles of water on the ground literally boil. It was windy that day too. you definitely do not want to touch this hot water. Visiting a handicraft workshop store  at Geysir Hot Springs. Falls called Gullfos.     Fos in Icelandic means waterfall. The next photo is the story of this falls. DSC_0358 Gullfoss (Golden Falls) is a massive waterfall on the river Hvita in western Iceland The falls are considered one of Iceland's most treasured natural wonders, with a name inspired by the phenomenon when glacial sediment in the water turns the falls golden in the sunlight. DSC_0365 DSC_0369 Hotel Selfoss where we stayed in the town of Selfoss/Hveragerdi The weather did not cooperate this afternoon. The majority of the trip we had great weather for late June early July weather.  Selfoss is the largest town in South Iceland and the gateway to all that this area has to offer. The population is 6,300. This next grouping of photos  is driving in south Iceland . Taking in the landscape of south Iceland, the river gorges, the farmland and the waterfalls. DSC_0384 DSC_0387 DSC_0391 Water falls or Foss in Icelandic dot the landscape. DSC_0397 Iceland in Summer is so green really this should be Greenland and Greenland the country should be Iceland. Icelanders are required to register their religion with the state, with almost three-quarters of the population affiliated to the established Evangelical Lutheran Church of Iceland Not so long ago, churches across the country were left with their doors open and visitors could stop by for a look or a quiet moment of contemplation. Unfortunately, due to the disrespectful actions of a few, they are now locked and if you wish to have a look inside, you will have to check the local opening hours or mass schedule. An old abandoned house with a roof of grass built into a hillside to get away from the continual winds and cold weather. Skogafoss falls. Skogafoss is unique because the waterfall comes directly from two glaciers, Eyjafjallajokull and Myrdalsjokull. DSC_0405 Proununciation of Icelandic names is not easy for most of us. Skógafoss is one of the biggest waterfalls in Iceland, with a drop of some 180 feet and a width of 75 feet , and you can walk right up to it, but be prepared to be drenched. It is just overwhelming standing next to it. According to legend, a Viking named Thrasi hid his hoarded gold under the falls. Many have tried to find the chest of gold and, as the story goes, a young man almost succeeded. He tied a rope to the chest handle ring and pulled. He only retrieved the ring and returned with it. The ring was later used for the church door at Skogar. The river below the falls holds a large salmon and char population. Summer time and it is cool weather for camping at the falls. Care to rent an RV for camping in Iceland? I saw this saying on the side of a building and I think it is one of the best I have seen anywhere in the world.  In a world where you can be anything, BE YOURSELF! The glacier you see is Sotheimajokull in which we will be climbing onto this glacier. DSC_0418 Closer view of where will be hiking in a few minutes. A  black substance called Cryoconite is causing glaciers all over the world to melt more quickly today than in the past. Cryoconite is powdery windblown dust made of a combination of small rock particles, soot and bacteria. The dark dust, which is spread over glaciers in Iceland  and other icy areas of the world by wind and rain, is composed of mineral dust from warmer regions of the world, rock particles from volcanic eruptions, and soot from fires. Our guide to help us have a safe and  successful trip hiking on the glacier.  He spoke at least 7 languages from all over the world fluently. Studying engineering  in College. Even with the crampons it was treacherous hiking each step on the glacier. Explaining what we are seeing, about the movement, depth of the glacier and age of the glacier thousands of years. The crevasses can be hundreds of feet down  in length.  These have melted hugely in recent years. DSC_0426 All of our group made the trip today. We helped those that had second thoughts about making the trip. Everyone was glad they had come today for this adventure. The ice pick is for stability and help in pulling your self up or anchoring a location to stand. Resting for a few minutes taking in the scenery. DSC_0434 Crampons are fastened to your shoes. They are essential gear on steep snowfields, glaciers and vertical ice. I know what you are thinking, and no, they are not called “clamp-ons.” Crampon is a French word for a piece of gear first designed in 1908 in a 10-point style. ... On ice climbing crampons, the front points are narrow to better penetrate the ice. Time for questions. DSC_0441 Why is glacier ice blue? Glacier ice is blue because the red ,long wave lengths, part of white light is absorbed by ice and the blue, short wavelengths, light is transmitted and scattered. The longer the path light travels in ice, the more blue it appears. Up close on the crystal blue ice A last look at the glacier and where we had hiked the last couple of hours. What a thrill. Beggi, our guide, brought along a bottle of THE BEST ICELANDIC VODKA.   We drank it over glacier ice he picked up during the climb.. The ice blue ice.  The first one was great. The second one was fantastic. The third...AWESOME! I think we went to lunch afterwards.. ha A group of Icelandic students getting ready to hike up onto the glacier.  See the pile of crampons behind the truck. The group we had just seen beginning their hike. We had the opportunity to go 4 wheeling in Iceland in the area of Vik beach, Black Sands Beach,  and hills above. What a great time that was. DSC_0456 Our Super Jeep Tour, off road driving, took us to a number of interesting places we could have not gone with a traditional vehicle. Large basalt columns. The closest major landmark is the Dyrhólaey rock arch and cliffs. While many seabirds are found at Reynisfjara, it is nothing compared to the numbers here. From May to August, it is one of the best places to see puffins from land. DSC_0464 Great area for Birding The black sand beach in Vik and some other beaches in Iceland have their color due to the volcanic explosions. Once the lava is cooled and dry, it forms solid rock. Then when the rock starts to get worn, it transforms into tiny pebbles that are not quite refined into fine grains. Reynisfjara is a world-famous black-sand beach found on the South Coast of Iceland, With its enormous basalt stacks, roaring Atlantic waves and stunning panoramas, Reynisfjara is widely considered to be the most beautiful example of Iceland’s black sand beaches. A seal keeping a watchful eye on those of us on the beach Volcanic lava eruptions have left the ground in these stacking conditions. More lava conditions left behind The photos taken high up on the hill previously  is directly above where this cave is on the beach. Upon visiting the beach, travelers will immediately observe rocky sea stacks sitting off the shoreline, known as Reynisdrangar. Visitors to Reynisfjara must be made well aware of the potential dangers present at the beach. First of all, the rolling, roaring waves of Reynisfjara are particularly violent, often pushing far further up the beach than many would not expect.  These are called sneaker-waves, and they can appear when least expected, even on incredibly still days. There are no significant landmasses in between Antarctica and the shores of Reynisfjara, meaning waves have thousands of kilometers to build. The top of this hill in the sudden fog that just came in is directly abovef the cave seen in an early photo. Off Road Super Jeep Vehicles Looking down on the village of  Vik,, population 291.   it is the largest settlement for some 43 miles  around and is an important staging post, and thus it is indicated on road signs from a long distance away. According to local Icelandic folklore, these large basalt columns were once trolls trying to pull ships from the ocean to shore. However, these trolls were dim and went out too late in the night; dawn broke on the horizon, turning the trolls into solid stone. I guess the secret is if you are a troll in Iceland do not stay out late a night. It is bad for your health. You end up a rock somewhere. We visited a flower farm that relies on geothermal energy to grow flowers in hot houses. Here the owner is explaining the process and what makes the flowers grow year round in the harsh winter weather of Iceland. DSC_0506 DSC_0507 DSC_0509 We learned so much in how to grow flowers in such harsh conditions. The flowers were awesome. The flowers were absolutely beautiful. What a great way to grow them in such harsh conditions. Today we also had a fun time to go on a river rafting trip on the Hvita Glacial river. We donned wet suites, helmets, waterproof shoes, and life vests and on inflatable rafts and  we paddled down stream.. At one point I jumped off a 50 foot precipice into the freezing glacial water and when I  bobbed up in the water I  had frozen water in my nose. That was some experience. Unfortunately we had no cameras on the trip out of safety while paddling.  I had my favorite spot, front left in the raft. What a  blast. Our transportation throughout  Iceland and our same driver too who was great. The views in southwestern Iceland.  Beautiful in every direction. Today we visited the Geothermal power plant at Hellisheidi that together with four other plants provides 30% of the electricity needed for Iceland. The Hellisheiði Power Station is the third-largest geothermal power station in the world. The plant is equipped with six high-pressure steam turbines and a low-pressure steam turbine to generate power. The steam output from the turbines is used to heat fresh ground water to a temperature of 127 F and then reheating by heat exchange up to 193 F.. During the tour we learned of Iceland's progressive approach to sustainable resources as we toured the plant. The interior and the exterior is very modern with sleek lines with lots of glass. Front entrance DSC_0529 Back in 1974, the Svartsengi Geothermal power plant began harnessing geothermal energy. The process created a reservoir of hot, blue seawater near the plant. People were naturally attracted to this unique looking water and began to bathe in it. Those with skin conditions noticed that the water and the silica, algae, and minerals had a positive impact on their skin. The Blue Lagoon Iceland is a geothermal spa that’s situated on an 800-year-old lava field on the Reykjanes Peninsula – a UNESCO geopark. It’s situated around 25 miles from Reykjavik, in south-western Iceland. The Blue Lagoon is a spa in Iceland and is open all year round. ... The warm seawater is rich with minerals such as silica that do wonders for your skin. The Blue Lagoon offers Psoriasis treatments. The water in the Blue Lagoon completely renews itself every 48 hours. You literally just pick up the white mud in the bottom of the lagoon and rub it on your face and body. I did...but when I looked in the mirror later in the day I saw the exact same face...was not younger or better looking.  Ok just kidding.  It must take more than one visit. The number of visitors increased, and public bathing facilities were created. The lagoon was then relocated from the shadows of the power plant to its current location - a lava field on the Reykjanes Peninsula. Since then, the lagoon has continued to be enhanced for visitors with secluded areas, in-water bars, a restaurant built into a lava wall having been added, and an underground spa and viewing points of the volcanic landscape due for completion in 2017. There are dressing rooms, showers, restaurants, and a hotel on premises. The Geothermal plants are literally located next door. The water literally comes from the depths of the earth. The Blue Lagoon Iceland’s water is known as geothermal seawater. It originates 2,000 meters below the surface of the earth. Here, seawater and groundwater meet to create geothermal seawater. Pressure causes this water to flow to the earth’s surface, taking with it substances that it passes through – like silica, algae, and minerals. These are what give the Blue Lagoon its rejuvenating powers. The Blue Lagoon holds 9 million liters of geothermal seawater. The lagoon itself covers an area of 8,700 square meters and has a depth of around 1.2 meters on average. The deepest parts are 1.6 meters deep. It refills itself every 40 hours. However, nothing is wasted. The lagoon is based upon a geothermal eco cycle so that it has no impact on the environment. Entrance fees are from US $68 per person to just go into the water. The National Museum of Iceland traces the history of Iceland from the early Viking settlements to the present day through over 2,000 artifacts, photographs and multimedia displays. A major overhaul of the building in 2004 has created an interactive, state-of-the-art space, which offers plenty of visitor participation. Christ the King.  See next photo for description of the item. DSC_0558 Start with the main permanent exhibition, Making of A Nation, which illustrates Iceland’s challenging journey to nationhood. Divided into four sections, the first, Work and the Way of Life, details the resourcefulness and adaptability of Icelanders since settlement in 870. In the second section, learn about the settlement patterns of Iceland. The third section focuses on arts and crafts and the final section explores the social culture and language of Iceland. DSC_0560 DSC_0561 DSC_0562 DSC_0563 Beautiful Stained Glass windows DSC_0565 A visit to the museum is well worth the time spent going from floor to floor. DSC_0567 DSC_0568 Everything is very well displayed DSC_0570 DSC_0571 DSC_0572 Vikings and Sagas National Museum of Iceland showing heritage elements and interior views Traditional House DSC_0576 THE ICELANDIC WARTIME MUSEUM - Guests of the Icelandic Wartime Museum go back about 70 years, to the 1940's, the high point of the World War II in this stunning museum which is one of its kind in Iceland. The museum's exhibitions give a full account of days gone by, both from the perspective of the soldiers as well as the inhabitants of Reyðarfjörður village. What a great opportunity to step into a time machine and revisit the days of World War II. The museum gives insights into the life of that period, the constant threat the inhabitants faced, the effects of the military occupation on Icelanders as well as the fashion trends and the daily life of the people. Iceland has never been at war, Reydarfjordur served as an Allied base during World War II and hosts an endearing Wartime museum dedicated to this period in history with memorabilia, an airport, old barracks and small gun shelters. DSC_0588 The museum is located by the barracks that were a part of a big hospital camp. Guests will walk by a model of the camp as well as the facilities of the soldiers. A number of original items from this time give the museum its unique position as a Wartime Museum in Iceland, an unusual time in the life of Icelanders. DSC_0590 Belt buckles from Nazi Germany What great location for a party in this room surrounded with history of the 1940's and World War II. Amazing the memorabilia collected within this museum Newspapers from World War II DSC_0603 World War II Barracks near by the museum. Árbæjarsafn is the historical museum of the city of Reykjavík Árbæjarsafn is the historical museum of the city of Reykjavík as well as an open-air museum and a regional museum. Its purpose is to give the public an insight into the living conditions, work and recreational activities of the people of Reykjavík in earlier times. DSC_0611 DSC_0612 Old homes moved in from the central part of Reykjavik Its purpose is to give the public an insight into the living conditions, work and recreational activities of the people of Reykjavík in earlier times. DSC_0618 Árbæjarsafn Museum was opened in 1957 and is part of the Reykjavík City Museum. On your visit to the museum, you will see old houses, which have been moved to Árbæjarsafn Museum from the old center of Reykjavík to preserve them and exhibit them. Most of the houses are fully furnished, but some of them host exhibitions. Iceland was a fascinating place to visit. We were fortunate in the time I was there in late June the weather was not cold but cool. We had sunny days and even a little rain on occasion.  The people of Iceland are very friendly and helpful. The skies at night were lighted almost 24 hours a day due to this time of summer solstice. You could read a book outside at midnight in the north.  The food was very good with many choices of fresh fish caught daily.  This has been a wonderful experience. Now I am leaving for Greenland for a new adventure.
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